Category Archives: Seasonal garden guides

Weekly garden guide, In the garden this week, In the Taranaki garden

August 31, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

  • Spring is upon us so it is panic time in the garden. It is time to sow everything – annuals and most vegetables. Keep sowing successions of potatoes and peas.
  • Those with glasshouses can contemplate starting their special crops like melons and tomatoes in preparation for planting out in late spring.
  • Do not delay any longer in pruning deciduous fruit trees and getting a winter copper spray on to them. They are poised to spring into growth.
  • Sow main crop onions. If you have not yet sown your garlic, this is your last chance. Buy proper garlic cloves from the garden centre. The word on cheap Chinese garlic is that it is not virus free and it should not be grown for fear of spreading the virus further.
  • Deadhead hellebores to prevent a future explosion of competing seedlings.
  • If you are planning on sowing new lawns, you are running out of time. Preparing the ground in advance gives you the opportunity to deal to the germinating weed seeds by raking them off or spraying before you sow the grass seed. If possible, this should be done several times. However, unless you have already prepared for this, it is getting late to get it all established before summer. A lawn will only ever be as good as the preparation.
  • If you have a magnolia opening its flowers to reveal a very distorted form, it is a safe bet that you have a possum with a taste for the buds. They eat out the centre and can do a great deal of damage. Similarly the bright and gaudy rosella parrots can do huge damage and reportedly took every bud off an established magnolia tree in Cambridge.

August 24, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

While we can still get caught by a late frost (and inland areas may continue having frosts for a while yet) temperatures are rising and the days are getting longer. These act as signals to plants to go into spring growth.

  • Do not delay on moving larger trees or shrubs that you have in the wrong place. The sooner you can get these relocated, the longer the plant has to settle in before drier and warmer conditions cause stress (for the plant, not the gardener). If any such plants look to have very large tops in comparison to rather small root systems, then prune them to reduce the stress and water loss that will result from the move.
  • Similarly, all woody plants are better planted out in the garden now rather than later.
  • If you have not pruned your raspberries, then do it this weekend. Remove all last year’s fruiting canes and trim back the new canes to a suitable length if needed. Thin the canes to avoid overcrowding. It is not ideal to prune at this time – it is better to remove spent canes straight after fruiting in summer and to tidy up the new growth in autumn. But we will admit to having just done ours this week and we still expect a good crop.
  • If you have not dug in any green crops you may have, then make it top priority this weekend (along with pruning the raspberries and grape vines). You will need to wait another six weeks before you can use the ground for planting.
  • Kiwifruit should also have been pruned by now. Select out last summer’s long canes to be the fruiting wood for the coming season. Cut out all the weak and old growths and confine the plant to a limited number of strong fresh canes. It is usual to tie these down to a wire or similar support.
  • It is not too late to sow broad beans for harvest in early summer. Fresh broad beans straight from the garden are a taste treat and bear little resemblance to either the frozen product or the tough old leathery things sometimes sold.

August 17, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

Regular readers will note that a couple of entries, here, are repeated from last week. Space constraints in the newspaper version meant that some entries were held over.

  • An esteemed colleague in a national publication tells us that there are a number of bulbs which can be lifted when in full growth (but probably better done just after flowering) but he only cites snowdrops and bluebells by name. Normal practice is to dig and replant when the bulbs are dormant in their off season but most of us forget where they are at that time. We knew that the English advocate moving snowdrops (galanthus) when in full growth but it appears that it can be done with other types of bulbs. However, if you are going to do this, we would recommend only transplanting to well cultivated garden beds or pots as opposed to field or woodland drifts in harder conditions. It is a big ask for bulbs in full growth to go into compacted, heavy conditions and to settle in well.
  • Make sure you have finished pruning grape vines. The sap will be starting to run and the vines weep and drip for days if you prune them too late.
  • Pruning of deciduous trees and shrubs (excluding cherry trees which are summer pruned) should be done immediately too. This includes deciduous fruit trees. If you have not already given a clean up copper spray to fruit trees and maybe roses, then get onto it.
  • Try and keep on top of the early flush of weeds. Remember the old edict of one year’s seeding equals seven year’s weeding. Preventing weeds from going to seed is much better than eternal weeding which can be very dull and discouraging.
  • In all but the coldest areas, early potatoes can be planted now.
  • Keep sowing a succession of lettuce and brassicas in trays or pots to be planted out into the garden in six weeks.

August 10, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

  • The campbellii magnolias on Powderham Street beside the radio station are in full flower at the moment and worth looking at. They are the big pink and white flowers. The red magnolia just opening its flowers around town at the moment is Vulcan.
  • An esteemed colleague in a national publication tells us that there are a number of bulbs which can be lifted when in full growth (but probably better done just after flowering) but he only cites snowdrops and bluebells by name. Normal practice is to dig and replant when the bulbs are dormant in their off season but most of us forget where they are at that time. We knew that the English advocate moving snowdrops (galanthus) when in full growth but it appears that it can be done with other types of bulbs. However, if you are going to do this, we would recommend only transplanting to well cultivated garden beds or pots as opposed to field or woodland drifts in harder conditions. It is a big ask for bulbs in full growth to go into compacted, heavy conditions and to settle in well.
  • Pleione orchids can be divided now. Discard the soft black bulb in the centre and replant the smaller green bulbs which have formed around its outside. Pleiones sit on the surface or just below with their bases nestled in, but do not press down hard. If they have started to shoot from the base and you break the shoots off, they do not put out more. Pleiones are easy to grow in well drained conditions or in pots and multiply up satisfyingly except for the choice yellow ones which prefer a colder climate to here.
  • In all but the coldest areas, early potatoes can be planted now.
  • Peas can be sown. This is a crop where making a sowing every few weeks from here on will ensure continued harvest. Parsnips, carrots, beetroot and radish can also be sown but will need protection from the rain. A coating of compost will help to avoid seeds being washed out. Sheets of glass were the traditional way to cover seeds but narrow strips of clear roofing plastic are easier to handle.
  • Start topdressing your lawn. There are any number of proprietary lawn fertilisers. Bioboost is a cheap and cheerful option. Lawns do not need the Rolls Royce expensive fertiliser options. If you feel you must use hormone sprays on your lawn to take out broadleafed weeds, get onto it as soon as the weather allows. Some deciduous plants, particularly magnolias, are very susceptible to these hormone sprays at the time when they are going into growth. The result can be badly distorted and unsightly foliage all spring and summer. So it is best to use the hormone sprays such as Tordon Gold either very soon or to delay until mid October onwards.

August 6, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

  • While August is still rated as winter, the worst of the winter weather has probably passed in July. So prepare for the sudden onset of spring growth. Mulching garden beds can help reduce the explosion of weeds germinating as soon as temperatures rise but the layer of mulch will need to be around 10cm thick to work. Use bark chips or fines, compost if it is weed free, leaf litter, wood shavings (not tanalised) or pea straw. Dunedin gardeners may still use the cocoa husks from Cadburys that we remember from our days of living there – a decidedly chocolate aroma from garden mulching is a smell peculiar to that southern city.
  • Prune sasanqua camellias now that they have nearly all finished flowering.
  • Fuchsias can be pruned in mild areas. These are one of the easiest plants to strike from cuttings so you can use the firm growth from last season to create new plants. You will get a higher success rate if you put the cuttings in potting mix in a sheltered place.
  • Dig in green crops in the vegetable garden. It takes time for them to break down and the woodier the green crop, the longer it will take to decompose. Allow four weeks before planting again.
  • Garden centres will have their biggest selection of fruit trees available at the moment. As a general rule, fruit trees like full sun and good drainage but you can get away with tamarillos in a woodland setting. Generally speaking, plums, apples and pears are successful throughout Taranaki and coastal areas can grow good citrus. Sadly, apricots, peaches and cherries are not going to grow well here. They prefer poor stony soils, hotter summers, colder winters and drier conditions.
  • Slugs and snails will be on the move very soon as temperatures rise. Be vigilant but be very cautious with poisoned baits. It is very distressing to kill your dog (not that we have done that here), as well as hedgehogs. Baits have a lure added and will attract the prey so you do not need to carpet the ground. Be sparing. There are also a number of other ways of controlling these pests without poison – the buried beer can, the upside down half citrus shell, digital control by torchlight etc.
  • Take a look at the Kings Seeds Catalogue for an impressive selection. No less than 47 different tomatoes with many heirloom varieties. Did you know there are 14 different types of radishes available here? While many of the mainstream annuals and vegetable seeds are included, this is where you source material which is a little different. It also includes an organics section, micro greens, herbs, gourmet vegetables and even fragrant oils. Online at www.kingsseeds.co.nz or phone on 07 549 3409 to order a catalogue.