Preparing for the fall

The vertical line is the tree trunk on the left

I use the term ‘fall’ not in the North American sense of autumn, nor in any spiritual, biblical or metaphorical usage. I mean it literally. One of our big old pine trees will fall and I am picking sooner rather than later. It has always had a bit of lean to it but that lean has increased significantly in very recent times and it appears the base is parting company with the ground.

Looking up at the remaining length that is likely to fall one piece

It shouldn’t be devastating when it happens. It is already dead and has lost its side branches so it is just a long thin length with a predictable fall area. It is just that the length is probably over 40 metres. Our old pines are dwindling in number and we are well practiced at dealing with them when they fall. They are Pinus radiata, original seed planted by Mark’s great grandfather in the 1870s, so long before this country settled on selections of that particular tree as its forestry tree of choice. They are at the end of their lives.

The palm which it is resting one is just a native nikau palm – lovely palms but they self-seed here so we are not worried about losing it.

Why not get the arborist in to drop it now, you may wonder. There are additional reasons as well as the cost. The tree is dead; we don’t know how much is rotten or soft and trees with extensive decay are hazardous to the operator when it comes to felling. But also dropping a tree that size would require bringing it down in sections and the amount of damage caused by it coming down in sections would likely be greater than letting it fall on its own. Because we have no access for larger machinery to that part of the garden, it would all have to be reduced to the largest size that could be handled by two men and our very small tractor.

I took this photo to show the new home for half the huge vriesea bromeliad that Zach removed from danger but it also illustrates two other aspects. Firstly, that is a previously fallen tree that we have left in situ and are just planting around as it will gently decay over years. The second is to credit Zach with showing skills in transplanting a fairly large plant and getting it bedded in so only we know it has been there for all of 30 minutes.

No. It can fall when ready and we will do our usual clean up. This involves cutting through to reopen pathways and clear lawn areas, removing all broken branches, pruning any other trees or shrubs it damaged as it fell and then just gardening around the lengths that remain in place. It only takes six months to a year for it to have all settled down and the lengths remaining in situ give added height and natural structure in the garden.

The same plant from another angle. I think it is one of the forms or maybe hybrids of Vriesea fosteriana. It started with one rosette some years ago, planted on an old tree trunk that was right in line for the new tree trunk we expect to fall. It had increased quietly to maybe 10 or a dozen rosettes. This clump is half of them.

In the meantime, Zach has relocated a few plants that we would be sad to lose – the vireya R tuba, a charming little wedding palm Lytocaryum weddellianum and an excessively robust bromeliad that has taken some years to reach its current size.

That is the remaining half of the bromeliad relocated to a new position out of danger. As you can see in this photo, we like highly detailed woodland plantings.
Viewed from the other side to the previous photo, Zach moved some rounds of a previous fallen pine into position where there was a space and stacked them three high to give the plant elevation and to create pockets to plant in. That is a dendrobium orchid moved onto the rounds as well. The wood will decay over time but by then, the plants will have established their own little home.

I gave Zach a health and safety briefing which largely consisted of three pieces of advice. The first was to be very aware if he is working in the projected fall area and to think in advance which side to retreat to if necessary. Move sideways rather than trying to run away. And not to wear Bluetooth ear pods when working in the fall area so he can hear the first cracks before the crash.

Zach wondered if we should be running a sweepstake on when each of us thinks it will fall. I say any time but probably soon. Lloyd was guessing the next storm. Mark was saying it was dead and he thought it would just break up and fall over time – but I don’t think he had looked at the increased lean from all sides as Zach and I had.

Felix in Norway

The northern hemisphere magnolia season was largely over for the year when this photo came down my social media. That is our Magnolia ‘Felix Jury’ flowering this very week in Håvik, Rogaland, Norway. Over a hundred flowers, I believe.

Photo credit Trygve Hagland, shared with his permission

We are accustomed to seeing photos of Jury plants from around the world but this one seemed particularly significant in terms of pushing climatic boundaries and somewhat touching at a personal level. It is just so far away from us and yet a little piece of genetic material from Tikorangi is thriving beyond expectation.

I had to look up where Håvik is – on the west coast of Norway bounded by a fjord and the North Sea on one side and high mountains on the other. It is getting quite close to the Arctic Circle so will be an area accustomed to very long daylight hours in summer and long hours of  darkness and low light in winter. Even allowing for the moderating effect of the nearby sea, these conditions are as extreme as our conditions here are mild. Frankly, it is astonishing to us that it is performing at all, let alone performing to this extent.

For us it flowers in August through to early September which would translate to February through to early March in the northern hemisphere but it has clearly delayed its blooming by two months in Norway. Despite that, it has retained its flower form and is showing good colour.

The distance between Tikorangi and Håvik is around 17 500 km so it may be one of the furthest away Jury plants being grown but the delight is shared equally between the breeder here and the gardener there.

The flower appears a little smaller than we get here but, given the northerly latitude and the exceptional number of blooms, that is not surprising. Photo credit: Trygve Hagland

A dead tree, an alive Australian plant and too much miscanthus

The grey coloured tangle of branches was the dead malus

We had our preferred arborist back this week. The dead malus in the entrance was not huge and access was easy but it looked like one of those jobs that would take us at least a couple of days but that he could complete by morning tea time. I was pretty much right on that. By 10.30, it was down, firewood cut to easy sizes and small stuff all fed through the mulcher.

A mere three hours later. Sometimes getting in the professionals is worth it.

The arborist described it as being like a bird’s nest. It was an extraordinary tangle of fine branches. I wondered how much of a gap it would leave but, in the event, not much, really. The prunus that stood beside it is looking more glorious in its autumn raiment.  It sent me down a rabbit hole, looking for earlier photographs of the area.

The entranceway back in 1986

Oh look. Here we have it looking remarkably romantic in April 1986. It was still being grazed by sheep and Felix still had his hens. And, looking carefully, it appears that the cherry trees and likely the crabapple were planted around this time so that particular tree lasted for close to 40 years.

The three diagonals heading upwards to the left are flower spikes
Same clump flowering in 2018. It has grown.

The Doryanthes palmeri has put up three flower spikes! I use the exclamation mark because this particular plant, commonly known as the Queensland spear lily, has only flowered once for us, back in 2018.  It was pretty remarkable, with the flowering lasting a good five months. In the years since, the clump has grown substantially and the entire Court Garden area has been developed and planted. Like the cardiocrinum lily, each rosette only flowers once after many years but it then sets offshoots which will also take many years but then flower spectacularly. They are surely the sturdiest flower stem of any plant we grow but not for the faint-hearted or small gardens. Our clump is now around five metres across.

Zach and I have been reviewing the adjacent Court Garden. It is time for some significant thinning and a major cull on the Miscanthus ‘Morning Light’. I see I wrote three years ago: 

What amazes me is that this plethora of Miscanthus ‘Morning Light’ all descend from just one small plant that Mark bought originally. It was still just one plant, albeit a large clump, when I first lifted it and started dividing it in 2017. We have just kept dividing since. In those six intervening years, that one original plant has now yielded several hundred sizeable clumps.

The miscanthus is falling apart after just three years – a sign that it needs more attention than we are willing to give it on an ongoing basis

Just three years ago, every miscanthus in that garden was dug out and carted away (to Pukeiti Gardens, no less). Zach had smaller clumps ready to go straight back in, divided from one of the plants. Three years on, they need lifting and dividing again. Already. This is not light work, the clumps are huge and falling apart.

At its best, shining in the lower angle of the winter sun
Too demanding of attention – this plant will collapse apart with rain.

It is a good looking and obligingly easy grass. As far as I am concerned, its best season is around the winter solstice when the sun comes in at its lowest angle, lighting up the pale flowerheads like moving lanterns. That is a magical sight. But we don’t need 25 to 30  clumps of it in the Court Garden to shine like lanterns in low winter light, all needing lifting and dividing every three years.   I think we can make do with a third of that number. It is not worth the effort required to keep it looking good in larger numbers.

Our native red tussock – Chionochloa rubra – is just a fantastic plant, given room to festoon

It might be time for me to update The Grass Report. The brief conclusion will be that if you have the space – at least two metres across in all directions – the low maintenance, looks-good-all-year-round, shining star of the grassy garden here is our native red tussock – Chionochloa rubra. I wouldn’t be without it.

April bulbs in bloom

Plenty of cyclamen flowering in shades of pink and pure white

Unlike earlier months, the April bulbs here have been a narrow range of different varieties, although certainly not in terms of numbers. The rockery in particular is a carpet of Cyclamen hederifolium but, as that became full, we have gently encouraged its spread to anywhere it wants to grow. It is very much the easiest and most adaptable of the cyclamen we grow.

Nerines and Moraea polystachya together

I wrote about both the Nerine sarniensis and the Moraea poystachya last month as they hit their peak. Both are heading towards the end of their season now but a six week season is a long time for a bulb.

The autumn snowdrops are always a surprise but at last I looked them up and I am pretty sure that these are Galanthus reginae-olgae, Queen Olga’s snowdrop. In the likelihood that few readers, if any, even know who this Olga was, I can advise that she was Olga Constantinovna of Russia who was also Queen of Greece at the time when a Greek botanist identified this species native to the area.

Now to commit the name Galanthus reginae-olgae to memory….

Mark often cites this snowdrop as an example of how even the most charming of bulbs is most charming when it flowers in the season when we expect it. Snowdrops, he feels, belong in late winter to earliest spring – harbingers of season change – and most of them do flower then and we are delighted to see them. It is why, as a plant breeder, he wants plants to flower at their allotted time of the year, not to appear as a novelty at the ‘wrong’ time.

I digress, but when a new species of camellia, known first as C. changii but then renamed to the less helpful but correct in plant nomenclature C. azalea, became available, his interest in acquiring it for breeding was decidedly lacklustre. Its main flowering is in summer whereas pretty much every other camellia flowers in autumn (for sasanquas and some species), winter or early spring. A summer flowering camellia still strikes him as fundamentally on the fringes of the natural order; after all, he argues, we have an abundance of other summer flowering plants and we don’t need a range of camellias flowering at the same time.

Schizostylis oo hesperantha. Or river lily, apparently.

A somewhat unsung but easy autumn rhizome is what we know of as a schizostylis but I see it is more correctly named as Hesperantha coccinea. I am not sure which name is easier to remember but maybe its common name of ‘river lily’ could be helpful, even though it is an iris, native to southern Africa and Zimbabwe. I see photographs on line of it growing in big clumps, but its foliage is unremarkable. I divide it up and dot it through the cottage gardens we refer to as the Iolanthe garden to add an extra bit of autumn colour and interest. It seems to be more favoured in the UK where it has a history in the cut flower industry and various named cultivars selected and even awarded by the RHS. Perhaps we are not so much into autumn bulbs in these southerly climes.

I made the mistake of planting O. eckloniana in a rockery pocket and have been weeding it out ever since. It is mighty handsome in a pot, though.

The other main group of bulbs just hitting their stride are the ornamental oxalis. Set aside your prejudices about oxalis – there are a few that are real pests and downright weeds but there are also some that are extremely ornamental – pretty as. But they are not all equal. Some have good looks but a fleeting season in bloom (here’s looking at you O. fabaefolia and flavas pink and white). Some are downright dangerous with thousands of teeny tiny bulbs that if you liberate in your garden, you will never get rid of unless you replace the soil entirely. Some are not strong enough to survive well in garden conditions and need to be nursed along in pots. But some are excellent in the garden and not a problem at all.

Oxalis purpurea alba. We find the pink flowered forms of this species invasive but this lovely white form is reasonably strong growing but not weedy and it is easy to remove entirely if required.
I would give the same verdict on O. luteola – long flowering season and garden friendly.

When our Zach was doing his apprenticeship here, he was required to curate a collection of plants and he chose oxalis. He has a collection of over 30 ornamental species now, most retrieved from the garden where I had planted them (and regretted some). They are variable in terms of garden merit but it is hard to beat O. purpurea alba and O. luteola as garden plants. Call them by their common name of wood sorrel if it makes you feel better.

Just a small sampling of the more than 30 varieties we have in the oxalis collection. There is a wide range of leaf type, flower size and colour.

And so to May this coming Friday. The new month will open with Nerine bowdenii, the last of the nerines to flower for us each season and the easiest to grow and bloom. I see its first flower has opened.

Autumn dig and divide

The borders need some intensive attention but, I admit, we were doing the easier areas first. There is so much detail in the borders that it is harder to manage access to some areas. The Iris sibirica will all be lifted shortly for thinning and dividing and Zach tells me that was one of the first jobs he did when he started here in 2021. So, it seems we can get five years out of them before they need a total revamp.

Zach and I are busy, a-diggin’ and a-dividin’. The advice is often to do this in springtime when the plants are in growth and that is probably true for gardeners with heavy soils and colder winters. We prefer to do it in autumn, even if it means getting hoses and buckets out in dry spells. Our winters are short and we will have at least six weeks and maybe longer before growth stops for winter. Autumnal conditions can extend as far as the winter solstice.

In contrast to our long, mild autumn, springtime is usually wet and we are slower than some areas for soils to warm up. It is fine to dig and divide at that time but, by doing it now, plants have a jump start. Besides, we have a lot to do. Many summer flowering perennials are demanding plants when it comes to care.

The aster with a name that defies all but the most particular type of memory, at its very best. Alas, it does not stay looking its very best for long enough,
And the same aster riddled with mildew and falling apart even though it was only a year since it was last dug and divided to address these very issues

Zach started on the asters in the Wave Garden. While a variety of mid-sized asters carry the twin borders through autumn, we had just used a compact blue aster in two of the bays of the Wave Garden. In its first couple of years, I loved it and so did the butterflies. It is a clump-forming Michaelmas daisy. I fell out of love with it when it started to get the white haze of mildew in summer but even more so when we realised it needed to be lifted and divided pretty much every single year to keep it as a carpet of blue. By the second year it falls apart. Nice it may be, but it is not nice enough to warrant that amount of individual attention.

The same view stripped out and replanted, but not in asters. It should be fully furnished again by mid spring

This blue aster has a name but I have to look it up every time because who can remember Aster novi-belgii ‘Professor Anton Kippenberg’? Even worse was when I discovered that the plant has now been reclassified and is no long an aster but… wait for it… is now Symphyotrichum novi-belgii ‘Professor Anton Kippenberg’. Too much, I say, too much. It has gorn forever from the Wave Garden, replaced by a compact blue salvia we had elsewhere and blue bearded iris.

Gardening for us is in part constantly refining areas, acting on what has worked and what is less satisfactory. And we have done a lot of learning since I planted the summer gardens, because large plantings of summer perennials are new territories for us. We fully lifted, dug, and replanted 4 of the 12 outside bays in the Wave Garden, replanting with fresh compost and mulch.

In a moment of woolly thinking, I labelled this photo ‘Anna’s Pink’ which is clearly wrong because Anna is red and Penny is pink but now I am not sure which it is. But it is from the Frostkiss series and it is very good, as are the others I have.

Zach moved on to the Court Garden and I moved into other plantings. In one border, I lifted all the hellebores and consigned them to the compost heap. We have fairly large plantings of hellebores and I wouldn’t be without H. argutifolius, H. x sternii and H. foetidus in particular,  but I wouldn’t give you anything for most of the more common H. orientalis in our conditions. We have tried really hard with them, Mark has done controlled crosses and we have admired their merits in places with cold winters but I truly think they are over-rated in milder climates. Out they go. The only ones that I will give prime garden space to are the marvellous ‘Frostkiss’ series bred by Rodney Davey. ‘Anna’s Red’ and ‘Penny’s Pink’ were the first ones to be released here but there are more later ones and I aim to buy the lot now because they are so good. Lovely foliage, plenty of flowers held above the foliage and they all seem to be sterile so not producing endless seed to be weeded out. I dug my plants – I see I have  7 different varieties already – divided them and consolidated them into one border where they have prime position with spring bulbs. I expect them to take a year or two to re-establish well but my hopes are high.

Anigozanthus can sit and sulk for a while but digging, dividing and replanting in a sunnier position paid dividends, 18 months later.

Some plants take a while to re-establish. I had all but given up on this anigozanthus (kangaroo paw) after dividing it and replanting it in full sun two or maybe three years ago. I have lost plants from this family before. But it took a year to rest, do very little and review its options before stunning this year with the best show it has ever put on.

Last year – the flaxes have just had a bit of tidying up in the past 7 years
Completely lifted, divided up and replanted with just a few smaller divisions last week – hopefully to last another 7 years, largely untouched.

Zach is doing a major lift and divide in the Court Garden and I am grateful he is doing it because most of the plants are large. I planted this garden in 2019, starting with a blank canvas and reasonably large divisions (not small nursery plants in pots). In the time since, it has had very little attention bar a major cull and replant on the Miscanthus ‘Morning Light’ in 2022. Zach isn’t lifting everything but he is lifting quite a bit and we are reviewing the plantings metre by metre. It seems that about six years is how long that sort of planting of strong growing, large perennials can last looking good. An intensive three weeks of work every six years along with a bit of ongoing care and weeding is not exactly a high maintenance demand.

Long may this autumn last. We still have plenty to get done.

May 2019, the southern end of the Court Garden
Just 18 months later in November 2020. The growth rate was rewarding.
Late last year so another five years on – the dominant plants have changed a bit but the overall impression is pretty stable and little major work has been done.