The Missing Summer Savoury

Did we have any summer savoury, enquired a friend. Now summer savoury is not a herb I have ever felt the need of so the answer was negative but I asked why. For green beans, was the reply. Summer savoury is the recommended herb to add to green beans and at this time of the year, many of us have an abundance of that vegetable. I knew the friend would be correct (he always is) but I looked up my Larousse tome on gastronomy, which happened to be a gift from said friend, and a very useful gift too. Sure enough. How can I lived for so long, married as I am to a grower of green beans, and failed to ever hear before that I needed summer savoury to add flavour?

We have always grown some fresh herbs here and have been enjoying a much more abundant quantity and range this year. This can possibly be attributed to some channel surfing and occasional desultory dipping into the Food Channel. Suddenly I found the charms of using large sprays of fresh herbs (discarded after cooking) as well as the more traditional finely chopped additions. I shun anything which has dried mixed herbs in it (which rules out everything pre-stuffed at the supermarket). The dusty packet stuff is not even a poor imitation of the genuine fresh article. I use dried and powdered spices but not herbs. They need to be fresh.

There are entire books devoted to the herb garden and traditional, formal layouts. These often take the form of a wagon wheel or something equally cutsie. Of course the medieval herb gardens were on a somewhat more expansive scale, not just limited to culinary herbs but taking in a vast array of medicinal plants as well. The designated herb garden, in modern times, seems a bit of no-brainer to me. The problem is that different herbs require different growing conditions and it is rare to be able to offer this in one small space. Herbs come from a range of different plant families around the world and the common link is their use in cooking, not a similarity in preferred growing conditions.

The critical factor in planting herbs, Mark observes, is avoiding corners and preferably elevating the plants. Unless you live completely isolated from any dogs and cats, you can be pretty sure that your own pet or the neighbours’ wandering ones will pass by your gardens cocking their legs (dogs) or spraying (cats) – marking territory. It is not a great thought when you are harvesting the foliage from low growing plants. Animals particularly favour the outer parameters of garden beds which is why corner plants are often favoured.

For me, as the cook, the most important factor is having as many herb varieties as possible close to the kitchen door, or at least along a sealed path so that I can wander out in slippers in winter. Most of us only use herbs if they are convenient to pick at the time so proximity is important.

A few herbs are annuals (in other words, they grow from seed and die within a year or less) and, as with most annuals, they prefer well cultivated soil and good levels of moisture to sustain all that quick growth. Basil doesn’t even last one year – the first cold will kill it off. Coriander and dill are less fussy about conditions but are also annuals. Basil tends to grow best in vegetable garden conditions which offer the most cultivated and hospitable surroundings. Obviously you can grow it in containers over summer but if you let it dry out and the plant gets stressed, it will go to seed and die quickly.

Parsley, that infinitely useful and hardy herb, is biennial. In its second year it flowers, sets seed and dies. It is not fussy or particular but if you are starting from scratch, it helps to plant it two years in a row to keep the cycle going and to make sure you let at least one plant a year seed down to ensure its survival. A designated parsley patch in the veg garden is the way to go if you have the space, or you can let it do its thing in flower borders near the house.

Other herbs are clumping perennials. Mint comes from a vast family (there are around 2000 named cultivars of mint alone!) and likes rich, moist soils which is quite different to the dry loving herbs from North Africa and the Mediterranean. It also spreads enthusiastically below ground so can become invasive. Grow it in a position where you can control its wayward habits. An old laundry tub is the option chosen by the neighbour.

Marjoram, its stronger flavoured cousin oregano and chives are better behaved, low growing clumping perennials which will often sit quite happily on the margins of the flower borders near the house if you want them in a convenient position. So too with Vietnamese mint, which is not a mint but is very aromatic, vigorous and reasonably decorative but destined for the compost heap here because I am allergic to it.

Sage is a member of the salvia family, another perennial but one which grows larger and can be inclined to get woody and ugly if you don’t keep it well pinched out. It is only half hardy (may die in colder conditions) and likes full sun and good drainage (which means it may die in wet winters and heavy soil). But basically, it likes similar conditions to the sunny flower border.

Rosemary and thyme are from the Mediterranean and North African areas and will happily grow in poor, dry conditions. No compost is needed for them. Rosemary is a woody shrub which will get some size to it if allowed. At a pinch you can hedge it but it does stay a bit woody and open. It needs excellent drainage and is best in open conditions. Thymes tend to be low growing spreaders – think sunny rockery conditions. If your soils are heavy, you can plant these two in pots and half bury the pot in the garden to give them drier conditions in their root zone while drawing up what moisture they need from below.

Bay trees (the source of bay leaves) are just that if you let them go – trees. They also sucker (spreading through side shoots) and attract leaf sucking thrips. Fortunately they are tough and hardy and will take hard clipping so you can shape them into topiaries as feature plants and keep them under control. Planting in open or windy conditions will reduce the thrip infestation though plants will grow almost anywhere.

Tarragon can be a problem. You want French tarragon, not its inferior Russian relative. But French tarragon is an artemisia (wormwood, by common parlance, a species of which is also the source of absinthe) and only grows from cutting. If you try it from seed, you are growing the Russian form because the French one is sterile and never sets seed.

Mark has just arrived with pots of seed raised lemon grass for planting out. It is a tropical, clumping, perennial grass which can tolerate temperate conditions so will be content beside the chives and marjoram. Obviously next year we will be adding the annual summer savoury to the herb range here. Now that I have learned about it, I can not live the rest of my life eating green beans minus summer savoury.

February 13, 2009 In the Garden

• Tuesday’s rain was welcome and a gentle distribution to soften up the ground but do not be lulled into a false sense of security until we get a whole lot more. Here it penetrated the lawn to a depth of about 1cm only. The immediate effect will be to encourage the explosion of fungal disease on all susceptible plants (tomatoes, cucurbits, clematis, roses and the like) and to cause a fresh flush of weeds. Be vigilant on both. If you don’t want to spray for fungal attack, and most gardeners won’t, reduce the infected foliage, make sure you have good air movement and hope for dry weather. Obviously, avoid any overhead watering.
• Citrus trees are due for their spray of copper and summer oil. This spray will deal to mites and discourage botrytis. If you live in warmer coastal areas with reasonable shelter, we strongly recommend planting orange trees. They are by far the most productive fruit trees we grow here and keep us well stocked with oranges for twelve months of the year (although navel oranges and tangelos have a shorter fruiting season and do not hang on to their fruit until you are ready for it).
• If you have thrip infested rhododendrons (which shows up as silver leaves), now is the time to spray again if you plan to. You need to use a systemic insecticide which the plant absorbs and disperses, rather than a contact insecticide which only kills where it touches. Your local garden centre should be able to advise on suitable sprays. If the plants are badly infested, it weakens them as well as looking unsightly, so if you don’t plan to spray them at all, remove these plants and replace in autumn with better selections. The cold climate rhodos (which usually includes the American and German hybrids) are particularly vulnerable.
• Watch out for aphids and white butterflies, especially on brassicas. There are organic insecticides for brassicas or you could try a chilli spray. We haven’t tried it ourselves but a recommended home spray combines hot chilli sauce (tabasco or similar) at 3-5ml per litre of water plus 3-5ml of dishwashing detergent. A level standard teaspoon is 5ml but be stingy not generous as this is the maximum dose. This is a repellent, not a killer spray so you may have to combine it with digital control (squashing between fingers) and repeat fortnightly. If you don’t want to spray at all, draping net curtains or fine net cloth keeps white butterflies at bay.
• As space is created in the garden by digging potatoes or summer crops finishing, replant with winter brassicas, lettuce, or leeks for a late crop.

February 6, 2009 In the Garden

* If you growing rhubarb, you may well still be harvesting it now. Food TV’s Delia recommends adding a little chopped fresh ginger as you stew or bake it and we can endorse that recommendation. Alison Holst’s technique of stewing rhubarb with sago used to make this fruit more palatable to our children when they were very young. Rhubarb is a perennial plant which is a gross feeder – in other words it grows best in rich, well nourished soil conditions. It needs feeding and watering to keep it producing and to maintain strength in the plant as you strip its stems and leaves.
* South Taranaki gardeners on town water supplies are facing their usual summer water restrictions. As this is now an annual feature, gardeners should have the message by now that their practices must take into account the certainty of watering restrictions. Much of this preparation takes place in advance. Plant trees and shrubs in autumn and winter(not spring) so they can get established and not need summer watering. Cultivate soil well so it is friable and rich in humus and can hold moisture, and get a mulch on before the soil starts to dry. Plant hard wearing lawns and accept that a brown lawn is a sign of summer. Devise techniques for recycling household grey water or collecting rain water. A lush green garden at this time is more likely to be a sign that you are breaking the rules and lacking in civic spirit than that you are a great gardener.
* As you harvest stone fruit (most likely to be plums in this climate, but also including peaches, apricots and nectarines), prune the trees. This encourages them to form fruiting spurs for next year, rather than leafy growth.
* Don’t delay on doing any tree surgery and pruning on cherry trees. Fruiting cherries are different to ornamental cherry trees . Alas it is unlikely that you can successfully grow beautiful Black Dawsons or similar in our climate. They do best in poorer soils with cold dry winters – such as in Hawkes Bay and Central Otago. Ornamental cherries will flower well here but tend not to be long lived. If anyone has a wonderful fruiting cherry, please let us know.
* If you have green tomatoes which have holes in them, the likely culprit is the green loop caterpillar. There is not usually a heavy infestation so shaking the plant or picking it over carefully will uncover the culprit and avoid the need for resorting to insecticides. If you need to spray, there is an approved organic spray available. It is specifically for caterpillars and will not attack beneficial insects. Ask at your local garden centre. It will contain a bacteria (bacillus thuringiensis) as the active ingredient. Keep fortnightly copper sprays on tomato plants to stave off blight.
* Mark proudly announced that we have attained self sufficiency here – but alas it is only in garlic, courgettes and cucumbers so far. The juicing of courgettes (flavoured with fresh orange juice) was reasonably successful last week. This week’s juice is cucumber and fresh lime. Fortunately the garlic keeps well so there is no need to devise a juice based on garlic.

There were no zucchinis on "The Road to Ellerslie" but too many at home.

The chief programming boffins at TVNZ are clearly not gardeners. No matter that every leisure survey in this country puts gardening at the top or close to the top of favoured activities, TVNZ has done its utmost to ignore it in recent times. Since the demise of Maggie’s Garden Show several years ago, there has been nothing memorable in the way of gardening programmes.

But wait. Suddenly we have a new gardening programme. Alas it has been banished to the wasteland time of 9.30am on Saturday morning. It is not even morning coffee time. And with nary a trailer to be seen promoting it, my guess it is has entirely bypassed most gardeners. Ah ha. Proof positive to the programmers that there is no demand for gardening programmes on the main channels.

It is called “The Road to Ellerslie” which may be a little off-putting for non Christchurch or southern viewers but is probably indicative of who put up some of the money to fund its making. For readers not in the know, Auckland’s well known Ellerslie Flower Show (which hadn’t actually been staged at Ellerslie for many years, having moved to the Bot Gardens) was sold to the highest bidder, which happened to be Christchurch.
Auckland of course sprang into action with its new flower and garden show last spring and Christchurch moved its dates to autumn. Hence this programme.

But the episode we caught last week was not just about the Christchurch version of the Ellerslie Flower Show. It is magazine format for those of us whose concentration spans can’t cope with more than a six minute sequence but overall we gave it a creditable pass mark. There was a profile of an attractive garden on Banks Peninsula. It was a shame about the dreadful camera work which panned around so quickly that it was impossible to focus on the bigger views that were shown, but other than that, it showed a garden and gardener of some merit. We then went to the garden of a Christchurch landscaper who is preparing an exhibit for the flower show. Her own garden was pretty rough and not remarkable but the coverage of her planned exhibit was interesting. We then had a brief segment by another local landscaper giving us ideas and principles for our own gardens. Nothing memorable but a good format idea. Then to broaden the appeal, we had Aucklanders Lynda Hallinan on building a worm farm and Tony Morel on watering tips. Lynda goes from strength to strength in the New Zealand garden scene. She has a lot of experience now and she walks the talk, being genuinely interested in plants and hands-on gardening as well as having an engaging personality. Tony’s section was a little too brief and short on detail, but he too has amassed a lot of experience in recent years and his enthusiasm is infectious.

We will be having an early coffee to catch another programme tomorrow morning. It is so nice to see something home grown in gardening TV.
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A friend reported that he had no choice but to make the sad decision to euthanase three zucchini plants.
He had simply run out of ideas to use the rampant produce, having done every vegetable alternative in his repertoire along with muffins, pies and even chocolate cake with grated zucchini (pleasantly moist and good keeping). He had to take drastic steps to slow the harvest, having run out of room in the vegetable crisper.

Turn your back and a zucchini can turn into a marrow overnight and marrows are a challenge to turn into an appetising meal. In days gone by, I have tried to use them by cooking stuffed marrow but the bottom line is the stuffing tends to taste better without the marrow casing. I am not so desperate these days that I feel obliged to use up every marrow. But faced by a small mountain of overgrown zucchini bordering on marrows here too, I dug out the juicer. We only found the juicer recently, stored by one of our overseas daughters in her wardrobe at home and it is quite a remarkable piece of equipment. She says she bought it from Cash Converters for $25 (or maybe it was $40) so I am guessing that juicers are somewhat like bread makers – the thought appeals but the reality ends up being that yet another appliance sits unused in the cupboard. But it did a splendid job on the zucchini and a veritable torrent of fresh, pale green liquid emerged. If we were into chilled soups, I could see an instant use for fresh zucchini juice. But alas, although my Mark is a relatively adventurous eater, he draws the line at chilled soup. So what was I to do with around four litres of zucchini juice? I froze two litres in the hope that it may last until the hot soup season returns. The remainder I mixed with fresh squeezed orange juice to see if that would make it more palatable. It did, although Mark was a little underwhelmed by the orange and zucchini combo with his breakfast. I know he would prefer the OJ without the vegetable addition but variety is good for us, I am sure and I rate it as refreshing.

While on a mission to deal with the avalanche of zucchini, I also tried stuffing the flowers. I have been served these in an expensive restaurant before and they were divine. The usual filling is a simple mix of ricotta cheese (firmer than its cottage cheese cousin), parmesan and fresh herbs. The whole is then dipped in a light batter and deep fried quickly. I never deep fry anything and sadly shallow frying does not really work. While the result was very tasty, it certainly lacked the visual oomph as my flower bundles collapsed. I shall try the oven baked version next time. It is worth perfecting the technique if you are growing your own but keep to the larger female flowers (you can even pick them just as the tiny zucchini are forming at the base) because the male flowers (which do not set fruit) are a little too small.

If you are wondering about the difference between courgettes and zucchini, I read somewhere recently that the former are so-called by the French while the latter is the Italian term. I am guessing that the English were a little slow to catch on that they are best eaten at the juvenile stage so maybe they can lay claim to the term marrow.

January 31, 2009 In the Garden

*Summer is the rest time in the ornamental garden. There is not a whole lot you can do in current conditions beyond routine maintenance, weeding, deadheading and summer pruning roses and clematis. However, the harbingers of seasonal change are already starting to appear in the shops -spring bulbs which are sold dry at this time of the year. Anemones and ranunculus are being advertised and I am guessing that other spring bulbs will be appearing for sale soon. If you have clumps of spring bulbs in your own garden which you have been planning to lift and divide, you can do this at any time now. If you heeded our advice in this column last year, you will have marked their location so you will know where to dig.
* If your lawn is starting to look brown, don’t worry about it. It will green up again with the autumn rains. Grass is a resilient plant but we remind you again not to cut the lawn very short at this time of the year because that may cause it to cark out.
* Last call on sowing corn for coastal areas. It is too late now for cooler inland locations. Sown now, the plants will mature just before winter and will hold for several months for eating fresh through June and even into July. All areas can continue sowing beans now. These are a rewarding crop for the home gardener and give excellent yields for very little effort.
* Now is the important time to be starting work for the winter garden and this cropping is the most important one for saving money on grocery bills. If you missed sowing the summer garden but are thinking you would like to try growing some veg, get started now with brassicas from seed. Broccoli, cabbage and cauli can all be sown, as can spinach (winter or summer types), silver beet and beetroot. It is the very last opportunity for putting in brussel sprouts and you will have to do it from plants now, not seed.
* Keep sowing lettuce to keep a succession going.
* Maintain good water levels in the vegetable garden. If you can avoid it drying out, then a little water often is more effective.
* A quote this week from Charles Elliott, himself the editor of “The Quotable Gardener”: One thing that’s nice about vegetable gardening is that design does not come into it. I’m aware that there is a movement in favour of ornamental vegetable beds – potagers and all that – but I’m not tempted to get involved. There is something seriously perverse about forcing such an earnest and innocent plant as a stalk of sweet corn to take centre stage in a composition suited to the eye of a Renaissance Frenchman. And the box hedging! If life is too short to peel a grape, it is certainly too short to grow cabbages in the form of a quincunx.