A Gardener's Christmas

What I would really like Santa to bring me this Christmas is a genuine kink free hose or two. We own lots of garden hoses here and all are meant to be kink-free. Over a period of time, none are… There is little more annoying than using the hose and finding the water stops suddenly because it kinks in the same spot every time. Then the water pressure either blows it off the tap which sprays water everywhere, or when I bend to straighten the offending kink, the end of the hose suddenly develops a life and will of its own and sprays me with water. Either way, I get wet. Maybe Santa knows a manufacturer of hosepipes which don’t ever go into kinks. I am told that using a hose reel keeps kinks at bay, but as I regularly use four different garden taps, unless I want to keep moving the entire shebang, I would need four hose reels and four brand new hoses which may be asking altogether too much from Santa.

I am hoping Santa may also go to the Boxing Day sales (I may need to accompany him) and buy me two ladders. One needs to be a stable but lightweight two or three step affair for pruning plants which are just above my reach and one needs to be taller for reaching higher. OSH would not like our ladders here at all. They are somewhat unstable and held together by baling twine, but at least they have their rungs.

Other gifts for gardeners that I would recommend include good secateurs. Decent secateurs last for many years (as long as they don’t end up in the compost heap) and will retain a sharp edge for clean cuts. It is false economy to buy cheap secateurs which are invariable nasty. Grape snips, however, are lightweight and cheap and much appreciated by women gardeners with smaller hands (and presumably by Asian gardeners according to the Lockwood Smith school of thought). They are so much easier to carry in a pocket and I prefer them to conventional secateurs for lightweight trimming. If you are feeling generous, give the recipient a couple of pairs. We own a smaller and lightweight pair of secateurs bearing the brand ARS which Mark and I both treasure as being easy to use and keeping a good sharp edge. We bought them years ago for taking cuttings and they have remained firm favourites for ease of use.. I did have a handy secateur sharpener given to me by friends, until I mislaid it (quite possibly with various secateurs and trowels in the compost heap). It doesn’t do anywhere near as good a job as a proper sharpening stone but for a quick-fix sharpen, it works well enough to get by. They are cheap enough and I need to buy another one but I am still waiting for my missing one to reappear.

Pruning saws are not cheap, at least not for a quality brand, but are worth their weight in gold. My preference is for a straight blade, not a curved one.

Every gardener needs more than one wheelbarrow and here, too, you really do get the quality you pay for. The last barrow I purchased was dirt cheap but alas something went wrong in its design and if you put anything in the tray at the handle end, it tips back. If you are going to go for a really cheap option, at least look at an assembled model and try putting a couple of unbreakable items in it before you buy, to check for stability. I recall inheriting a dreadful barrow from my mother with the same design flaw. The big chunky contractor’s barrows are sturdy, but most women will find them too heavy and the handles too thick to use comfortably. Plastic trays don’t rust out if you leave them out in the rain or filled with debris.

Trowels are another item which every gardener needs in multiples. Even with the best of intentions, they go missing on regular occasions, sometimes never to reappear. I am sure that trowels take themselves off to some secret gathering place, there to commune with other wayward trowels, forever safe from discovery. Either that, or they are imbued with some deluded desire to grow up and become spades and they are hiding out in the interim, awaiting their metamorphosis. Mark’s advice is that blue is the easiest colour to find in the garden so he prefers bright blue handles. But many of us can testify that even secateurs and trowels with high viz handles can disappear when your attention is momentarily distracted.

I really prefer not to be given garden ornaments or decorations. These are a matter of personal taste and being rather pernickety in the matter, I would rather chose my own (or have none).

If you are looking for books to give for Christmas, it is hard to go past The Artful Gardener (reviewed on this page last week), by Rose Thodey and Gil Hanly. It is a very good book and would be welcomed by most serious gardeners. In the classics, Hilliers Manual of Trees and Shrubs is a good standby for every bookcase. If you are feeling really generous, Audrey Eagles massive tome on New Zealand plants would be welcomed by most enthusiasts. Botanical art prints are also a safe option, well liked by most people who enjoy plants and gardening. You can often find these reproduced on quality greetings cards and picture frames are so cheap now that it could make a thoughtful gift within even a child’s budget. Botanical art, by the way, shows the botanical detail of the plant being painted – the stamens, petals, seedheads and other parts of the plant anatomy. They are not just chocolate box pictures of pretty flowers which may fall into the same category as garden ornaments and decorations.

Ours is a household which never gives gift vouchers or money in any shape or form. Second hand books are acceptable because they show thought, but gift vouchers are utility and take no thought at all and it is perfectly obvious to the recipient how high a dollar value you place on them. But, as a friend pointed out, others view vouchers differently and gardening vouchers are often well received when other inspiration is lacking.

Another friend suggested sun hat and sun block as a thoughtful gift. I would add that littlies who need help buying small gifts for gardening parents, relatives or grandies could do much worse than giving a new nail brush and hand cream!

The final suggestion over morning coffee for a welcome Christmas gift was a gardener. Although it is more likely that a willing garden labourer is what many of us would prefer. I am not sure that Santa himself fits the bill on this one. A younger, leaner and fitter model would be better to have at one’s beck and call. Preferably one that is amenable, obedient, has a little initiative but not too much and is easy on the eye. Thanks, Santa.

December 5, 2008 Weekly Garden Guide

  • Potted colour (flowering annuals which are sold in larger pots rather than in small punnets) are often ridiculously cheap and can give instant flowering oomph to gardens, but it pays to be severe and cut off all flowers, flower buds and any spent flowers as you plant them if you want them to be more than a one week wonder. They can then recover from the stress of being planted out before putting their energies into flowering and setting seed.
  • Be very cautious from here on about planting out woody trees and shrubs which can suffer from terminal stress over summer. If in doubt, heeling the plant into well cultivated soil such as the vegetable garden over summer may be wise. You can then relocate to its permanent position when autumn arrives.
  • The really successful harvests here at the moment are the strawberries and the broad beans. Shame about the missing lettuces… Mark blames the rabbits but I think it would have helped to have planted them in the first place.
  • We make no apology for offering our annual advice to deal to convolvulus and wandering jew now. If you are not organic, Woody Weedkiller or Banvine is an effective option for the former and Shortcut, Amitrol or Grazon for the latter. Glyphosate does not touch wandering jew and is not particularly easy to use on convolvulus because it kills the host plant as well as the vine. If you are organic, you are probably going to have to hand pull these weeds and then place them in black plastic rubbish bags to cook in the sun. Every piece of wandering jew that you do not cook will grow again.
  • Our first crop of peas has now finished but if you continue to sow them, you can still get in one or two more crops before the heat of summer. Make sure your main crop potatoes are in and Mark is planting kumara runners now. It is the last chance for kumara. Yams and pumpkins should be planted by now but you can still get a crop if you plant them now. Use plants, not seed.

Beverley Nicholls (so-named before the feminisation of his Christian name) wrote in 1932: I had never “taken a cutting” before….

Do you not realize that the whole thing is miraculous? It is exactly as though you were to cut off your wife’s leg, stick it in the lawn, and be greeted on the following day by an entirely new woman, sprung from the leg, advancing across the lawn to meet you.

Writing as ones who have taken many hundreds of thousands of cuttings in our time, the magic of such activity has long ago escaped us but it would be safe to say that Mr Nicholls’ perspective is not one which has ever struck us before. However, Mark lives in hope. And a neighbour has given a new perspective on this. He put his hydrangea prunings through the mulcher, spread the mulch and now has hundreds of budding young hydrangeas in his garden. Micro propagation? Who needs to try cuttings when you have a mulcher?

In the garden 28/11/2008

  • Spring flowering shrubs are best pruned and then fed as they finish flowering, which, by definition, most will have done by now.
  • Stop putting off deadheading rhododendrons and get onto them asap.
  • Stay on top of weeds which are growing vigorously.
  • Scarlet runner beans can be planted. It is the last opportunity to get kumaras, yams and sweet potato variants into the ground. If you are still planting potatoes and tomatoes, they will be late crops so don’t delay on getting them in.
  • Keep successional sowings of peas, green beans, corn and all salad vegetables. These are all crops that need to be sown fortnightly to ensure continued supply.
  • Stop picking your asparagus immediately, no matter how great the temptation. They need the late shoots to build up strength in the crowns for next year.
  • Prune grapes, shortening the new growth to two leaves above the bunches and removing the enthusiastic lateral growths. This improves fruit yield considerably.
  • Brassicas are under siege now from white butterflies and other pests and diseases so unless you are prepared to spray, give up on trying to grow them (including rocket and mustard) until the cool of autumn descends.

Amongst life’s random and probably useless pieces of information is the news that the growing of the Giant Jersey cabbage has been in major decline over the past fifty years. This is clearly a terrible shame because not only are the leaves suitable for using in soup or feeding to cattle while the roots can be carved into thimbles. But the greatest use of the Giant Jersey cabbage (which has a proud history in the Channel Islands) is that it used to be cultivated for the production of gentlemen’s walking sticks. It did take three years to develop a stem worthy of a walking stick for a Victorian gentleman, but it sure beats cutting down a tree.

The Elements of Organic Gardening

Author: HRH The Prince of Wales with Stephanie Donaldson
Publisher: Orion distributed in NZ by Hachette Livre
ISBN 978 0 297 84498 3

No, HRH did not actually write this book and my review copy was not, alas, signed by him but he is a very keen gardener and has been committed to organic and sustainable gardening practices for many years, enduring quite a bit of ridicule before it became fashionable. This is a book for gardeners, not for fans of the royals (though the latter may enjoy it too). What sets this book apart from other organic tomes is that it is not solely dedicated to the production of healthy food. Indeed, while chapter 2 is on growing fruit and veg, much of the rest of the book is dedicated to good land management avoiding the use of chemicals with particular reference to maintaining a very high standard in ornamental gardens.

The Prince has three gardens – at Highgrove, Clarence House and Birkhall and he takes a hands on approach to managing all of them. Naturally he is backed up by very capable gardening staff but these gardens are his projects. The book is full of handy hints on gardening and quite a bit of very precise information. Some practices clearly require a generous royal budget (the water recycling process at Highgrove is reasonably complex) but many of the other tips and hints are within the reach of all gardeners. There is even a chapter on how to start converting to organic gardening practices. It is good to see a book which demystifies organics, avoids the hocus pocus fringe element often associated with it and which promotes practical solutions in sustainably managing high quality ornamental gardens on a large scale. Well done, Prince Charles.

I dream of hostas with a snail free leaf

Hostas have been preoccupying me for the past fortnight. First up, Mark and I volunteered to take a workshop on the topic during our recent festival and were a little taken aback at how many people turned up to hear our pearls of wisdom on the topic. And secondly, I have spent this week dividing and repotting hostas in the nursery. I have reached the point where I even dream about them which may be a sad commentary on the state of my life at the moment. But there are probably worse subjects to dream about than hostas.

When we used to sell plants by mail order, we were often surprised by the number of people who fail to understand that hostas are deciduous – in other words they disappear underground in autumn to re-emerge in all their glory in spring. And it is all that fresh spring growth which is their greatest appeal. That and their endearing tolerance of shaded conditions, even dry shade.

The worst example of hosta ignorance came from a new customer in Auckland. We despatched her order by courier in late autumn and she faxed back to say that the carton had arrived and all the plants were in excellent order, bar the hostas. I can still recall her words: “It appears there has been a rabbit in the carton eating the hosta foliage. Or if the hostas are meant to be like this, then I don’t want them.” I can not remember how we resolved the situation but I am pretty certain we never sent her another plant list. Some customers, as Mark has been known to observe, put the cuss into the word customer.

As with most other plant genus, hosta aficionados like to search out the new or the different (and in the hosta world, new does not always equal visibly different) so a full hosta collection can become rather large. But we are tending the other way and weeding out varieties which have minor variations at best. In fact I find it impossible to tell the difference between Patriot (itself a sport of Francee) and Minute Man. All three varieties are green with a white edge and googling hostas throws up a host of other minor variations of the same original plant. Hostas are not all stable in type and some varieties tend to throw up what are known as sports – aberrations or variations. Occasionally it will be something worth having but that is rare… The flip side of the coin is that the variegated hostas can tend to revert to a plain colour and that reverted part of the clump will often be stronger growing so will take over in time. So if you have a fancy hosta with a plain section, it pays to cut out that reversion. As most of the newer varieties in this country have come in as tissue cultured plantlets (in other words they have not been divided from an established clump but have been increased in a laboratory from cell divisions and grown on agar), the problem of reversions is becoming more common. Tissue culture is not always stable and can throw up variations or reversions.

The most common mistake made by less experienced gardeners is to be seduced by all the wacky variegations and to plant them together – the green with white edging, the reverse variegation of white with a green edging, the blue and yellow both ways and the green and gold options. After all, who wants to buy a plain coloured hosta, especially if it is plain green or a low key blue toned one? My rule of thumb is that every variegated hosta needs at least two plain coloured ones to set it off. So a showy big blue hosta with a yellow edging is going to look a great deal more effective if it is grouped with a small plain yellow and a mid sized plain blue plant. It is the variation in size, leaf shape and some level of restraint in combining patterned leaves which makes a hosta patch pleasing to the eye.

If you can’t bring yourself to buy plainer hostas and nobody is offering you divisions, raise seed. No matter what parent plant you collect the seed from, the vast majority of offspring will return to plain colours, mostly green.

Hostas are predominantly for shady areas of your garden. They are tolerant of very dry shade under trees but equally they will be happy in damper areas with heavy soils. What they don’t like are light soils in full sun – their foliage will just burn and the plants will fail to thrive. You can get away with reasonable light levels on the margins of sunny areas but the paler variegations (the plants with white or pale yellows) will burn and crisp around the edges in direct sun.

The greatest problem with growing good hostas, as every gardener knows, is slugs and snails which feed voraciously on the leaves. I spoke to many garden visitors, particularly from Auckland and Hamilton, who talked about walking out at night and crunching their way across snails and I can remember seeing the phenomenon once in Palmerston North where it was like a horror movie (The Invasion of the Snails, perhaps, or Snails’ Revenge) with literally hundreds of them teaming across a concrete pathway. If you have a snail problem of this magnitude, forget growing anything that is snail fodder. But if you have only a moderate issue with these herbivores, a combination of good selection and good management can keep the problem within manageable bounds. Choose hostas with thicker, tougher leaves rather than the soft and wispy types. Slimy crawlers do not appear to like slithering over gritty surfaces so circling plants with sand, sawdust, baker’s bran or similar will often deflect them elsewhere. We have little problem under our rimu trees with the thick carpet of rimu needles. Yes you can use slug bait, but it is not very nice stuff and can poison dogs, hedgehogs and birds so be very sparing – one bait per plant is all that is required. If you head out with a torch on a misty or rainy night after a dry period, you will often find the hungry offenders on the move.

Given that every discussion about hostas comes down to slug and snail control in the end, I leave you with the thought that most of the slugs in this country and all of our icky snails must have come in on plant material. What I do not understand is why, on those early boats bringing settlers to New Zealand along with all their trappings to remind them of home (blackbirds, thrushes, sparrows, trees and plants), they did not usefully employ themselves on the long sea voyage exercising digital control to ensure that not a single pesky slug or snail survived. It would have saved us a great deal of trouble in the garden.