Pick Preserve Serve

Author: Chris Fortune

Publisher: Bateman ($29.95)

ISBN: 978-1-86953-689-3

A few weeks ago, I reviewed the excellent New Zealand book on preserves entitled Relish. Now we have a second book on related topics.

It is not quite as glossy and luscious in presentation as the earlier book, but it is comprehensive, practical and reflects the renewed interest in using seasonal produce and preserving food at home instead of relying on the pre-packaged convenience foods of the supermarket.

Sadly there are many who never learned how to preserve by bottling, drying, freezing, pickling, salting and smoking. Nearly a third of the book gives simple and useful instructions on these techniques honed throughout history, now adapted to modern times. Half the book is devoted to seasonal recipes for preserves using all techniques. The recipes are simple and straightforward – this is all about demystifying the processes – but show the influence of a chef in the flavour combinations. Who could not be tempted by mushrooms preserved in white wine and thyme, dry salted limes or rhubarb and orange chutney?

This is a good book, reasonably priced and worth having if you are looking to make more time and effort to use seasonal produce to create delicious food throughout the year as well as to stretch the food budget.

Wildflowers and Meadow Gardens

We had cause to go to Auckland last week and were reminded once again of the charm of the wildflower plantings down the centre of the motorway. Driving out of the city on Saturday morning, we slowed to the expected crawl. Auckland can lay claim to having the most expensive stretches of motorway built for moving high volumes of traffic at reasonably high speeds but in fact accommodating vehicles which are relatively frequently travelling at 10 km an hour. In this case, workmen were repairing a central crash barrier and this necessitated closing one lane entirely despite the very wide median strip. But it did mean we could enjoy the wild flowers at a crawl. It was the cosmos that dominated this autumn, both cerise and white along with a sprinkling of yellow daisies and something blue (we couldn’t stop to do a full identification). Wildflower and meadow plantings are exempt from the modern requirement for colour toning.

Many years ago when the children were little, we took them on a camping trip around Nelson and were enchanted by a meadow garden we found. It was a field of mixed annual flowers up to waist height and the charm lay in the simplicity and nostalgia, not in design, form or plant composition. We came home inspired and did a bit of dibbly dabbling and research before we came to the conclusion that this is a garden style best suited to harsher climates. The Auckland motorway median strip represents pretty harsh conditions.

USA is renowned for its prairie gardens where mixed grasses and wild flowers can co-exist and return every year to delight afresh. North America has many native wild flowers so these are growing in their natural habitat.

Similarly, Britain has long established meadow gardens where native wildflowers can live in amongst the grasses and meadow gardening is recognised as being of both ecological and aesthetic merit. Western Australia is known for its spectacular wild flower season and parts of Southern Africa must put up splendid seasonal displays with the wealth of different bulbs which are indigenous to that area.
New Zealand lacks most of the native wildflowers and bulbs which give rise to natural meadow gardens and the imports that have thrived here don’t quite cut the mustard. Arum lilies and agapanthus can not foot it with Britain’s ground orchids such as the dactylorhiza. Anything that naturalises in this country is more inclined to be a thug than a treasure. It is possible to manage a perennial meadow garden here but it is not the easy care style requiring minimum labour that it is in other countries. And wildflower meadows are even more difficult to manage, having to be treated as an annual labour of love rather than a self seeding, ongoing venture with just a once a year mow required.

I suspect that anywhere that is good dairy land is not going to be good wildflower or meadow country. The reliable rain, good soils and benign temperatures mean that we get rampant grass growth for most of the year. So the grasses choke out the wild flowers and discourage them from gently self seeding. And every gardener knows that weeds are thugs. Left to their own devices, the law of nature says the thugs will dominate and it only takes a year before the undesirable weeds have such a hold that the charm of the wildflower field or meadow has been swamped by dock, dandelion and hawkweed and you are faced by a paddock of out of control weeds.

Internationally, these wildflower displays occur in areas where summers are dry and often hot and where winters are very cold. Thus the plants stop growing in both summer and winter. The triggers for plants to grow in these conditions are either autumn rains or the rise in temperatures in spring. Plants under stress will often respond by putting on splendid floral displays (it is the survival urge to flower and set seed before they die) and the harsh conditions of summer drought can trigger flowering. In Taranaki, the message to most plants is just to keep on growing so we can end up with disproportionate amounts of green foliage instead of blooms.

All of this means that if you covet a field of charming, summer wild flowers, you are probably wasting your time unless you live in an area such as Pukearuhe or coastal Waverley where the poorer and drier conditions will accommodate them better. And you will have to create it with imported flowers. New Zealand evolved as forest in the main, so we lack the pretty seasonal annuals.

Meadow gardens can be managed here, sort of, though it is much easier to do it with bulbs that with annuals. By definition, a meadow garden should be low maintenance so you want to keep the thugs right out of it from the start. And if you are thinking of planting intensively with herbaceous perennials such as primulas, essentially you are creating an informal herbaceous drift rather than a meadow garden. A meadow garden is a mix of grasses and naturalised plants. In spring, many of us do it with daffodils, bluebells, snowflakes or, if you are Mark, proper snowdrops but really, a meadow garden should have a much wider range of plants all co-existing in a gentle sort of way. All we are doing with the bulbs is naturalising them rather than creating a self sustaining mixed habitat.

A wild garden is often included in large English gardens and it can sit quite happily alongside more formal areas of topiary or well tended borders. Sadly, we are resigned to the fact that this is not a technique readily transplanted here and the wild garden is almost guaranteed to look like an unloved and unkempt wasteland. But then we do have compensations. Here the impending winter is not a sign of low light levels, abominably short days, general greyness and a complete lack of flowers. The sasanqua camellias are already in flower and we will continue to flower different plants all through autumn and winter. It is probably only eight weeks or so until the magnolias in Powderham Street next to the radio station start to flower and then we can feel spring is imminent.

In the garden 02/05/2008

Further rains mean that autumn has well and truly arrived but while temperatures remain mild, there is good and bad. The good is that it is now ideal for planting anything woody and it remains pleasant to work outside. The bad is that wet and warm weather not only brings on mushrooms and facial eczema, but also every fungal disease possible in the garden. They may well have taken out your cucurbits and tomatoes already. If you still have the upper hand, keep up the copper sprays but if the fungi have won, then give up and pick all the remaining produce before it rots.

  • Plant trees, shrubs and hedges of all descriptions.
  • Lawns can be fed now while it is still warm and if you have not yet sown your planned new lawns, get on to it immediately.
  • Repot root bound container plants. You can either move them to a larger size of container or you can root prune and return them to the same pot. If you are doing the latter, hose off as much of the old potting mix and dead root as possible and if you are savagely attacking the root ball, make sure you prune the top of the plant by a corresponding proportion to reduce the stress. After repotting, place the container in a shaded position for a few weeks.
  • Not all potting mixes are equal in quality by any manner of means. While cheap mixes are fine for temporary pots of annuals or for starting off seedlings, where you have semi permanent plants in containers it is false economy to use inferior mixes.
  • Look out for an explosion in slugs, snails and freshly germinating weeds brought on by the rains.

Really keen gardeners will be sowing their onion seeds now, in preparation for planting out in a couple of months’ time. Less keen gardeners will pay more and buy plants closer to the time. The Curious Gardener’s Almanac points out that onions have been used since the sixteenth century to treat gunshot wounds and that General Grant refused to move his Union troops without supplies of onions, so gun-totin’ onion growers may like to plant a few extra in reserve. However, Cervantes pointed out in Don Quixote that one should not eat garlic or onions for their smell will reveal that you are a peasant.

In the garden 25/04/2008

Plan to get onto planting woody trees and shrubs. While our soils are still pretty dry, the next rains should get the moisture levels up sufficiently to plant with confidence. April and May are infinitely better times for planting than spring, especially if we get more drought. There is still sufficient warmth for the plants to keep growing and they will establish nicely long before the threat of summer dry.

  • Tedious though digging may be, the better you prepare the soil the healthier the plants will stay. We only ever see the tops but it is what is happening below the surface that determines how good the bits above will look. Adding compost and humus improves the soil texture and fertility. Bio boost or good old blood and bone are cheaper options for fertiliser than the plastic coated bubbles (Nutricote, Osmocote etc) which are best reserved for container plants. After you have planted, lay a 10cm layer of mulch to keep the weeds down.
  • Only stake if you really need to and use as short a stake as possible. Believe it or not, over-staking causes the plants to be lazy (bit of anthropomorphism going on here) and they don’t work as hard to establish a good root system and strong trunks. The swaying and movement is what encourages them to establish well but that is of no comfort if you can’t keep the plant upright in the howling gales which may sweep down your garden. So less is better but some may be necessary.
  • We do not advocate stomping around plants in size ten workboots to tamp them in after planting either. You don’t want to compact all the soil around them and heavy footed stomping can also cause significant root damage. A gentler approach can firm the plant without needing to treat it like a wooden fence post.
  • Divide rhubarb clumps now. Rhubarb is a gross feeder so double dig the area where you are going to plant it and add lots of compost and plant food.
  • Plant broad beans which are really-o truly-o delicious when eaten fresh and young from the garden. These go in as seed, not plants. Don’t add manure to broad beans but compost never goes astray.
  • Get straight onto sowing down green crops in bare areas of the vegetable garden where you are not going to plant again until spring time. The importance of green crops can not be over stated in maintaining healthy soil capable of repeated cropping.

If you are not an inspired gardener, you may like Czech writer, Karel Capek’s comment:

There are several ways to lay out a little garden; the best way is to get a gardener.

DEBBO

After my garden visiting weekend in Marlborough, I came home feeling that I was suffering from DEBBO. That is Death by Buxus Overload. You can have too much of a good thing.

I will admit that we have the odd metre or two of buxus hedging ourselves and it certainly makes a tidy little hedge but the bottom line, as Mark is inclined to observe, is that box hedging is grossly over used and is basically boring and clichéd. He has never been a buxus fan.

I have been told by overseas visitors that in New Zealand we use clipped hedging a great deal. If that is the case, it probably started for two reasons. One is that we live in a windy country and most gardeners need to establish wind breaks. The second reason is that plants in this country are ridiculously cheap by international standards and planting a long hedge is usually a great deal cheaper than using permanent materials such as brick or stone and we can do it ourselves in an afternoon. It is this second reason that is probably responsible for the cumulative hundreds if not thousands of kilometres of low clipped hedges, mostly buxus, that we feel driven to plant to define the bounds of individual gardens.

Buxus is an infinitely handy little plant. It is so easy to strike from cutting that it is within the reach of even novice gardeners. And because it is so easy and so common, if you decide to buy it, the plants are cheap as chips. It does not grow too fast so you can get away with clipping just twice a year. Even if you cut it back to bare wood, it will shoot again and bush out. It will grow in harsh conditions (though it can get a bit yellow-ish at times) and tolerates rough treatment. Its main problem is the nasty fungus which is attacking and killing plants in warmer areas but has yet to be a major problem locally. All of which means we probably have our share of buxus kilometres in Taranaki gardens too. Even the lake in Pukekura Park has a buxus hedge which has always struck us a little redundant.

We have not yet felt such dislike of buxus that we have ripped out our modest metreage but at the first hint of buxus fungus we will be reaching for the saw and spade, not for the sprayer. And for some years we have been reviewing other options for neat clipped hedges. The big problem is that there is nothing that roots as easily and is therefore as cheap as buxus let alone its fine, small foliage. But there are options with better coloured foliage which will take cutting back hard and form dense little hedges.

Top of the list are some of the small leafed camellias. We have trialled various options here and our short list of suitable camellias for dense, clipped, small hedges includes brevistyla (which also suckers a little which is no bad thing for a hedge), microphylla and minutiflora (all species with small white flowers. Some of the very slow growing miniature camellias could also be used for clipping in to tidy hedges. Others, like Fairy Blush, Night Rider or transnokoensis can make great intermediate sized clipped hedges.

Some of the species camellias will set seed relatively freely so if you are patient, you could raise the seed to get cheap hedging. Seedlings are not identical (unlike cutting grown plants which carry all the same genes as their parent) but for a clipped hedge they should be close enough.

If you feel compelled to have buxus hedging in your potager (though why anyone wants to eludes us because it takes up valuable space, sucks nutrients and moisture out of the soil and provides a perfect hiding place for snails) you may like to consider a clipped edging of Camellia sinensis instead. If you gathered the clippings and fermented them, you could even aim to be self sufficient in tea. I saw cranberries pruned hard in a Blenheim potager. In that case they were lollipops but there is no reason why they could not be hedged. Locally, Te Popo Garden had hedged cranberries last time we visited. The ripe fruit has a wonderful aroma.

My short hedge of loropetalum chinense (the green form; we are conservatives here and rather of the view that hedges are best green, not in-your-face burgundy or chocolate or even grey) is thickening up well and only needs a passing trim twice a year.

In frost free areas, compact little vireyas Saxon Glow, Saxon Blush and Jiminy Cricket (all sister seedlings) make a tidy and attractive little hedge. Vireyas root easily so you could buy one and try your hand at cuttings.

Totara can be clipped heavily and becomes more dense, sprouting even from bare wood and forming a really classy indigenous hedge. It is a bit prickly when it comes to clipping and the prunings are not exactly ideal in the compost heap but because of that, it is also a burglar and child proof hedge. It is extremely hardy and long lived. Our remaining length of tightly clipped totara hedge dates back to the end of the nineteenth century and it is still dense and only two metres high. Some of the fine leafed coprosmas and corokias are other native plants which lend themselves to clipped hedging. The Aussies love our pittosporums for hedging but you need to be selective about the colour of the pitto you chose as some can be rather pale.

We are very lucky here to have an in-house hedge trimmer who takes great pride in getting them looking sharp, to the extent that he uses string lines and a spirit level. But we certainly would not contemplate planting a hedge that needed trimming more than twice a year. For that reason, we shun the popular teucrium and lonicera which certainly make good, quick and cheap hedges but need your attention a great deal more frequently than twice a year. In fact to keep those two looking good, it can be closer to twice a month in the peak growing season.

Next time maybe : NAB C BAT. That stands for Not Another Boring Clipped Bay Tree. And yes I do have a large lollipop bay tree (laurus nobilis) but it is in the vegetable garden where it is acceptable (it is the culinary bay and belongs in the herb garden) though it does get thrips in our climate. There are other plants besides buxus and bays that you can topiary as punctuation marks in the garden. Seeing some originality and flair in plant selection can be like a breath of fresh air for garden visitors who will often see the same plants used in similar ways in multiple gardens. Deliver me, please, from any more buxus and bays.