May 9, 2008 Weekly Garden Guide

Just last week we were talking about autumn and continuing mild temperatures. We were a bit taken aback by the sudden descent into winter temperatures (forget three dog nights, it has been two full on fires here each night).

While temperatures should rally somewhat, it is timely to remind gardeners not to delay on battening down for winter. If you grow frost tender material, be prepared for an early frost. It only takes one unexpected frost to do a large amount of damage.

  • Cold weather saps the motivation of all but the most determined gardener, so grab any mild days to progress the autumn clean up round. Only inland gardeners in cold conditions will put their gardens to bed for winter. The rest of us have year round growth to some extent but a clean up round does make the place look much more loved. Mark hostas or other deciduous perennials now that you plan to divide when dormant. It makes finding them a great deal easier when they have gone underground.
  • Leaf drop will happen quickly now that temperatures have dropped so markedly. Obviously paths, driveways and sealed areas need to be kept clear of fallen leaves or they can become slippery (we still love our blower vac for this task but if you lack one of these, leaf rakes are much easier to use than garden rakes). Autumn leaves should be seen as part of nature’s bounty, not a nuisance or, horrors, something to be burned. Raked into a moist heap, they rot down really quickly to give wonderful leaf mulch.
  • It is definitely time to get broad beans sown. These are a real treat when harvested fresh and young.
  • As you complete autumn harvest of pumpkins, corn, potatoes, tomatoes etc, clear the beds and sow down green crops. Lupin is ideal at this time of the year and has wonderful nitrogen fixing properties.
  • Make weeding and mulching a priority. Reducing the weeds at this time of the year will greatly reduce their impact in spring and summer coming.
  • Pick up walnuts for drying. You need to beat the rats to them. If you are promising yourself to buy a walnut tree, look for grafted ones. Seedling grown walnuts are extremely unreliable and you may waste many years only to find that yours will never fruit properly.
  • Two hundred years ago, Samuel Butler wrote:

    Youth is like spring, an over-praised season more remarkable for biting winds than genial breezes. Autumn is the mellower season, and what we lose in flowers we more than gain in fruits.

    Were he from Taranaki, this could be interpreted as advice not to forget to pick up your feijoas.

Pick Preserve Serve

Author: Chris Fortune

Publisher: Bateman ($29.95)

ISBN: 978-1-86953-689-3

A few weeks ago, I reviewed the excellent New Zealand book on preserves entitled Relish. Now we have a second book on related topics.

It is not quite as glossy and luscious in presentation as the earlier book, but it is comprehensive, practical and reflects the renewed interest in using seasonal produce and preserving food at home instead of relying on the pre-packaged convenience foods of the supermarket.

Sadly there are many who never learned how to preserve by bottling, drying, freezing, pickling, salting and smoking. Nearly a third of the book gives simple and useful instructions on these techniques honed throughout history, now adapted to modern times. Half the book is devoted to seasonal recipes for preserves using all techniques. The recipes are simple and straightforward – this is all about demystifying the processes – but show the influence of a chef in the flavour combinations. Who could not be tempted by mushrooms preserved in white wine and thyme, dry salted limes or rhubarb and orange chutney?

This is a good book, reasonably priced and worth having if you are looking to make more time and effort to use seasonal produce to create delicious food throughout the year as well as to stretch the food budget.

Wildflowers and Meadow Gardens

We had cause to go to Auckland last week and were reminded once again of the charm of the wildflower plantings down the centre of the motorway. Driving out of the city on Saturday morning, we slowed to the expected crawl. Auckland can lay claim to having the most expensive stretches of motorway built for moving high volumes of traffic at reasonably high speeds but in fact accommodating vehicles which are relatively frequently travelling at 10 km an hour. In this case, workmen were repairing a central crash barrier and this necessitated closing one lane entirely despite the very wide median strip. But it did mean we could enjoy the wild flowers at a crawl. It was the cosmos that dominated this autumn, both cerise and white along with a sprinkling of yellow daisies and something blue (we couldn’t stop to do a full identification). Wildflower and meadow plantings are exempt from the modern requirement for colour toning.

Many years ago when the children were little, we took them on a camping trip around Nelson and were enchanted by a meadow garden we found. It was a field of mixed annual flowers up to waist height and the charm lay in the simplicity and nostalgia, not in design, form or plant composition. We came home inspired and did a bit of dibbly dabbling and research before we came to the conclusion that this is a garden style best suited to harsher climates. The Auckland motorway median strip represents pretty harsh conditions.

USA is renowned for its prairie gardens where mixed grasses and wild flowers can co-exist and return every year to delight afresh. North America has many native wild flowers so these are growing in their natural habitat.

Similarly, Britain has long established meadow gardens where native wildflowers can live in amongst the grasses and meadow gardening is recognised as being of both ecological and aesthetic merit. Western Australia is known for its spectacular wild flower season and parts of Southern Africa must put up splendid seasonal displays with the wealth of different bulbs which are indigenous to that area.
New Zealand lacks most of the native wildflowers and bulbs which give rise to natural meadow gardens and the imports that have thrived here don’t quite cut the mustard. Arum lilies and agapanthus can not foot it with Britain’s ground orchids such as the dactylorhiza. Anything that naturalises in this country is more inclined to be a thug than a treasure. It is possible to manage a perennial meadow garden here but it is not the easy care style requiring minimum labour that it is in other countries. And wildflower meadows are even more difficult to manage, having to be treated as an annual labour of love rather than a self seeding, ongoing venture with just a once a year mow required.

I suspect that anywhere that is good dairy land is not going to be good wildflower or meadow country. The reliable rain, good soils and benign temperatures mean that we get rampant grass growth for most of the year. So the grasses choke out the wild flowers and discourage them from gently self seeding. And every gardener knows that weeds are thugs. Left to their own devices, the law of nature says the thugs will dominate and it only takes a year before the undesirable weeds have such a hold that the charm of the wildflower field or meadow has been swamped by dock, dandelion and hawkweed and you are faced by a paddock of out of control weeds.

Internationally, these wildflower displays occur in areas where summers are dry and often hot and where winters are very cold. Thus the plants stop growing in both summer and winter. The triggers for plants to grow in these conditions are either autumn rains or the rise in temperatures in spring. Plants under stress will often respond by putting on splendid floral displays (it is the survival urge to flower and set seed before they die) and the harsh conditions of summer drought can trigger flowering. In Taranaki, the message to most plants is just to keep on growing so we can end up with disproportionate amounts of green foliage instead of blooms.

All of this means that if you covet a field of charming, summer wild flowers, you are probably wasting your time unless you live in an area such as Pukearuhe or coastal Waverley where the poorer and drier conditions will accommodate them better. And you will have to create it with imported flowers. New Zealand evolved as forest in the main, so we lack the pretty seasonal annuals.

Meadow gardens can be managed here, sort of, though it is much easier to do it with bulbs that with annuals. By definition, a meadow garden should be low maintenance so you want to keep the thugs right out of it from the start. And if you are thinking of planting intensively with herbaceous perennials such as primulas, essentially you are creating an informal herbaceous drift rather than a meadow garden. A meadow garden is a mix of grasses and naturalised plants. In spring, many of us do it with daffodils, bluebells, snowflakes or, if you are Mark, proper snowdrops but really, a meadow garden should have a much wider range of plants all co-existing in a gentle sort of way. All we are doing with the bulbs is naturalising them rather than creating a self sustaining mixed habitat.

A wild garden is often included in large English gardens and it can sit quite happily alongside more formal areas of topiary or well tended borders. Sadly, we are resigned to the fact that this is not a technique readily transplanted here and the wild garden is almost guaranteed to look like an unloved and unkempt wasteland. But then we do have compensations. Here the impending winter is not a sign of low light levels, abominably short days, general greyness and a complete lack of flowers. The sasanqua camellias are already in flower and we will continue to flower different plants all through autumn and winter. It is probably only eight weeks or so until the magnolias in Powderham Street next to the radio station start to flower and then we can feel spring is imminent.

In the garden 02/05/2008

Further rains mean that autumn has well and truly arrived but while temperatures remain mild, there is good and bad. The good is that it is now ideal for planting anything woody and it remains pleasant to work outside. The bad is that wet and warm weather not only brings on mushrooms and facial eczema, but also every fungal disease possible in the garden. They may well have taken out your cucurbits and tomatoes already. If you still have the upper hand, keep up the copper sprays but if the fungi have won, then give up and pick all the remaining produce before it rots.

  • Plant trees, shrubs and hedges of all descriptions.
  • Lawns can be fed now while it is still warm and if you have not yet sown your planned new lawns, get on to it immediately.
  • Repot root bound container plants. You can either move them to a larger size of container or you can root prune and return them to the same pot. If you are doing the latter, hose off as much of the old potting mix and dead root as possible and if you are savagely attacking the root ball, make sure you prune the top of the plant by a corresponding proportion to reduce the stress. After repotting, place the container in a shaded position for a few weeks.
  • Not all potting mixes are equal in quality by any manner of means. While cheap mixes are fine for temporary pots of annuals or for starting off seedlings, where you have semi permanent plants in containers it is false economy to use inferior mixes.
  • Look out for an explosion in slugs, snails and freshly germinating weeds brought on by the rains.

Really keen gardeners will be sowing their onion seeds now, in preparation for planting out in a couple of months’ time. Less keen gardeners will pay more and buy plants closer to the time. The Curious Gardener’s Almanac points out that onions have been used since the sixteenth century to treat gunshot wounds and that General Grant refused to move his Union troops without supplies of onions, so gun-totin’ onion growers may like to plant a few extra in reserve. However, Cervantes pointed out in Don Quixote that one should not eat garlic or onions for their smell will reveal that you are a peasant.

In the garden 25/04/2008

Plan to get onto planting woody trees and shrubs. While our soils are still pretty dry, the next rains should get the moisture levels up sufficiently to plant with confidence. April and May are infinitely better times for planting than spring, especially if we get more drought. There is still sufficient warmth for the plants to keep growing and they will establish nicely long before the threat of summer dry.

  • Tedious though digging may be, the better you prepare the soil the healthier the plants will stay. We only ever see the tops but it is what is happening below the surface that determines how good the bits above will look. Adding compost and humus improves the soil texture and fertility. Bio boost or good old blood and bone are cheaper options for fertiliser than the plastic coated bubbles (Nutricote, Osmocote etc) which are best reserved for container plants. After you have planted, lay a 10cm layer of mulch to keep the weeds down.
  • Only stake if you really need to and use as short a stake as possible. Believe it or not, over-staking causes the plants to be lazy (bit of anthropomorphism going on here) and they don’t work as hard to establish a good root system and strong trunks. The swaying and movement is what encourages them to establish well but that is of no comfort if you can’t keep the plant upright in the howling gales which may sweep down your garden. So less is better but some may be necessary.
  • We do not advocate stomping around plants in size ten workboots to tamp them in after planting either. You don’t want to compact all the soil around them and heavy footed stomping can also cause significant root damage. A gentler approach can firm the plant without needing to treat it like a wooden fence post.
  • Divide rhubarb clumps now. Rhubarb is a gross feeder so double dig the area where you are going to plant it and add lots of compost and plant food.
  • Plant broad beans which are really-o truly-o delicious when eaten fresh and young from the garden. These go in as seed, not plants. Don’t add manure to broad beans but compost never goes astray.
  • Get straight onto sowing down green crops in bare areas of the vegetable garden where you are not going to plant again until spring time. The importance of green crops can not be over stated in maintaining healthy soil capable of repeated cropping.

If you are not an inspired gardener, you may like Czech writer, Karel Capek’s comment:

There are several ways to lay out a little garden; the best way is to get a gardener.