Of pohutukawa and pineapples

The pohutukawa - often called the NZ Christmas tree

The pohutukawa - often called the NZ Christmas tree

The cold spring is still having an impact. I say this because the pohutukawa flowering is late this year, probably by at least two weeks. Hardly the New Zealand Christmas tree – more like the mid January tree, where we live at least.

Mark and I drove around looking at the pohuts (as we tend to call them) in Waitara which are well worth a visit at the moment. Waitara would be a bleak little town without these splendid trees. We felt a bit like Mark’s parents reincarnated. For years, Felix and Mimosa would make forays around the pohutukawa plantings and keep records on particularly heavy flowering specimens and good coloured ones. Mark could still recall certain trees – number six along such and such an avenue, or the one outside Mrs So and So’s place. Felix and Mimosa knew them all.

We were not so meticulous, but certainly three aspects made a big impression. The first was what a splendid tree they are for coastal areas and what a joy to behold in flower. The second aspect was a bouquet to the District Council who finally got around to limbing up and cleaning up underneath the trees which line the river. They look hugely better for it.

The Waitara riverbanks are also home to the oldest yellow pohutakawa on the mainland

The Waitara riverbanks are also home to the oldest yellow pohutakawa on the mainland


The third aspect was the variation in colour. As landscape trees, not all pohutukawa are born equal. Their flowers may look lovely en masse, close up. But from a distance, rather a lot of them are distinctly brown in tonings. The stand out trees were those with rich red flowers, or those which had an orange tone to them. The orange lifts the colour considerably when viewed from further away. Funnily enough, the dark flowered forms tend to be later flowering.

The moral of this particular story is that if you are going to buy pohutukawa plants, it is worthwhile seeking out either named clones or plants from an identified seed source of good colour. One might as well start with better selections. If you plan on gathering your own seed, identify a good specimen now and return around mid May to collect the seed. Growing selected seed increases your chances of keeping good colour, although there will be variation. Partly as a result of Felix and Mimosa’s study of the Waitara pohutukawa, Duncan and Davies put out a good range of named selections. “Rata Maid” and “Scarlet Pimpernel” are still growing in Waitara. Up north, Graham Platt also selected good forms along with Jack Hobbs, including one called “Brilliance”.

Pohutukawa are tough trees and while they can get wide, they don’t get particularly tall. They can withstand most assaults except for frost when young and vicious attacks with injected weedkiller. If you cut a tree back hard to ground level, it will sprout again. And they will take heavy pruning. Cutting away all the growth from the base exposes their interesting trunk and branch structure and allows views through the tree. They don’t have to be dense, impenetrable visual barriers. They can be a flowering canopy with an interesting structure beneath. And the prunings are brilliant firewood.

We happened to be in Patea over the weekend and their pohutakuwa were also a real feature in the town. Many of them appeared to be of about the same age and are therefore likely to be from the same seed batch so they are not quite as varied as the Waitara plantings. Alas both these small towns suffer from the same problem of overhead power lines. If these were underground, the trees could grow without the heavy mutilation of top pruning some get subjected to on frequent occasions. That pruning does not do much for the appearance of the trees. Bottom pruning is good. Top pruning can be butchery.

On another topic, we had an amusing discussion with London daughter home for a holiday. In her travels around this country visiting friends, she had got into a conversation with somebody about an exciting new red pineapple which is being widely marketed. She just about fell off her chair when we told her that it was none other than the pineapple which grows beside our garage and which has been growing there for about 40 years or more since her grandfather imported it. Or so we understand. A northern nurseryman had visited and bought a plant from us. Sure that he had uncovered treasure which we didn’t appreciate, he put it into tissue culture to multiply it quickly and has been marketing it nationally as an exciting new release which is “cold tolerant, extremely hardy and easy to grow.”

Have we got news for him. It might be easy in Northland (and pineapples are just bromeliads so they are pretty easy in the right conditions) but hardy it ain’t (unless compared with the tropical pineapple) and it sure won’t be that rewarding in less than ideal conditions. I imagine he will get many letters from areas south of the Bombay Hills querying his claims. I can’t think that it will be a great success growing in Christchurch or Invercargill, for example, or indeed anywhere inland. In our books, cold tolerant and extremely hardy means it will grow in Tekapo and Turangi. If you have bought one of these pineapples, it will need the hottest position you can find in full sun. We find its fruit producing capacity is pretty hit and miss and it is an ornamental curiosity rather than the taste treat of the decade.

Pineapples are gross feeders. Our elderly plant is a pretty large clump. It needs thinning, which, because it is spiky and intimidating, does not happen often. You need leather gloves to handle it. The season that Mark thinned the clump and fed it well, it responded beautifully by putting on a splendid crop of fruit which are decidedly ornamental, but in our conditions they tend to rot before ripening properly. As Mark is big fresh pineapple fan, we still buy them from the supermarket.

This week 12 January 2007

  • If you are planting ornamentals with established root balls, make sure you plunge the whole root system into water and hold it down until the bubbles stop rising, to make sure that you don’t have dry patches. It is risky planting this late (summer may make an appearance one day soon) and you will need to water any plants in thoroughly and to keep watering a couple of times a week to give the plant a chance to establish its roots.
  • Dampening down soil by hosing really only prevents dust. Worse, it can encourage plants to keep their roots very close to the surface which makes them more vulnerable if you don’t water for a while. Effective watering needs to be able to penetrate well below the surface and a slow soaking is more effective than a quick sprinkle. Watering soon after rain such as we had on Wednesday will help get the moisture deeper if you have dry areas.
  • Divide nerines now. Bring autumn flowering, they will be going into growth soon so don’t delay. Nerines are one bulb where the crown is above ground and the base plate below. They tend to flower better if they are a little congested in a clump, but established clumps can get too large.
  • Early spring bulbs such as daffodils, snowdrops (galanthus), snowflakes (leucojum) and bluebells are all dormant now so can be lifted and held to be planted out in March or April.
  • Plant winter brassicas, leeks and winter spinach as you make space by eating the summer veg.
  • It is very important to keep successional planting going of practically everything. Succesional sowing is the key to ensuring continued supply and avoiding having a feast or famine.
  • After this moist, humid weather, tomatoes will need spraying with copper to keep on top of blight. Keep pinching the laterals out on the tomatoes and keep plants to one or two main stems only. The reverse applies to melons and pumpkins where you pinch out the terminal buds to encourage the laterals to grow on which the fruit is set.

This week 5 January 2007

  • If slugs and snails have decimated your hostas, it is possible to cut the foliage off, feed and water them well and they will spring into fresh growth which you can resolve to keep free from munching critters. This approach only works when plants are still in full growth and is the principle behind cutting back hybrid clematis which have finished flowering and roses past their first flush.
  • Containers of gross feeding annuals or perennials need liquid feeding, preferably weekly, and watering on a daily regime. Hanging baskets which are crammed with overcrowded flowering plants to gain effect may need twice daily watering as well as weekly liquid feeding to keep them looking good. These flowering plants are putting so much energy into putting on a display that they need the horticultural equivalent of the energy drink to keep them going. Deadheading will extend the display.
  • Containers planted with shrubs usually just need watering regularly because they should be getting their sustenance from slow release fertiliser in the potting mix and shrubs are more vulnerable to fertiliser burn from over feeding.
  • Stay on top of the weeding. Vigilance is the key to stopping an explosion of weeds.
  • Spray for thrips on rhododendrons if you have a problem with silver leaves. Fresh infestations can be seen on the underside of the foliage. Adult thrips are black and new ones are white.
  • Flowering cherries are one tree that gets pruned in summer, not when dormant in winter. So if you need to prune cherries or to take out witches broom (identifiable as strong growing, very leafy branches which fail to flower) plan on doing it over the next month or so.
  • In the vegetable garden, January is traditionally the time to plant out for winter although it may be a tad early for us. Some of the cabbages might be ready before winter if you put them in now. Winter vegetables do their growing in summer and autumn and then hold in the garden for you to harvest in the colder months. The key is to get the timing right so that they do not go to seed before winter.
  • Harvest garlic. It can be lifted now even if it is still green, and left to lie on the ground while the foliage dies off. Not so onions. Leave them until the tops are bent over.
  • Keep successional sowings of sweetcorn and other summer crops going. You have until the end of this month to ensure they get through before cold weather strikes. Although some of us might be wondering whether warm weather will ever actually arrive this summer.

The New Zealand gardening style

It was straight back to work here as soon as the statutory holidays were over. And by work, Mark and I refer to the nursery. We don’t generally describe gardening as work – that is our leisure and our pleasure (mostly). The nursery is the bread and butter which earns the money to keep the garden and the family going. And it is the time for cuttings. Usually we aim to have all deciduous cuttings in by Christmas (we rarely make that deadline so the over run is early in the new year) but several factors conspired against that this year. Not that it has mattered – the season is so late and so cold so far that we are effectively dealing with cuttings of the same maturity as usual.

But while I have been out in the nursery doing tasks which require little brain power, I have been pondering what makes New Zealand gardens different. At this time of the year, we get a trickle of overseas garden visitors and several of late have come because the British Royal Horticulture Society published an extended article on New Zealand gardens recently. It is with some pride that we note that on their top ten list of NZ gardens, they rate three of us in Taranaki.
Continue reading

This week 29 Dec 2006

  • It is time for cuttings. Some plants root much more easily than others (camellias and rhododendrons are difficult without a propagation set up). But perennials, fuchsias, hydrangeas and vireyas are very easy. Find new season’s growth which has just hardened (in other words it does not snap easily when you bend it). Make a clean angled cut across the base, take a sliver off the outside of the stem for a couple of centimetres (two sides for vireyas), cut the leaves in half with a pair of scissors (it prevents excessive drying out) and stick in a pot filled with a free draining potting mix. Place in the shade and water gently on a regular basis. Rooting hormone will help but is not absolutely necessary for easy cuttings. Handle rooting hormones with care and make sure you wash your hands thoroughly afterwards.
  • If you have an accident with spray at any time and get it on your skin, wash it off with copious amounts of cold water. Hot water opens the pores of the skin and increases the risk of absorbing the chemicals. So remember the cold water rule.
  • You can still sow seed of practically everything in the flowering line from ageratum to marigolds to zinnias to give you late summer and autumn colour.
  • Otherwise it is a maintenance time in the ornamental gardens – deadheading, weeding, staking but it is not likely that watering will be required.
  • Summer feed roses. In case you haven’t noticed, roses have pathetic little root systems considering the terrific amount of seasonal growth and the mass display they put on so a bit of feeding assistance helps them. If you are into spraying roses, they will almost certainly need a dose of Shield now.
  • You can still sow most plants from seed in the vegetable garden, from beans to tomatoes. The tomatoes will develop and crop through the autumn and into winter in mild areas. Keep successional plantings of sweetcorn going. Corn is another vegetable that is infinitely superior picked from your own garden – all the sugars have not turned to starch and it is sweeter and more tender than cobs picked days before for market.
  • It is the important time to spray citrus trees with copper and to fertilise if you haven’t done so already. Copper prevents all sorts of nasties on citrus trees.
  • Powdery mildew is the dominant disease at the moment on tamarillos, citrus, apples, even clematis. If you have to spray, there are several sprays which are the equivalent of Bravo and Topsin mixed – Taratek (a Taranaki product) or Greenguard are two to look for.