Tag Archives: Abbie Jury

Plant Collector: Astelia solandri

The quiet charm of self sown Astelia solandri

The quiet charm of self sown Astelia solandri

While we don’t have the global monopoly on all astelia species, most New Zealand gardeners don’t think beyond Astelia chathamica (with its big silver leaves) and bronze ‘Astelia Westland’. A. solandri is not usually available commercially, although I see Oratia Native Plants sell it if you want to have it. Ours are all seedlings, dispersed by birds and most grow as epiphytes perched on the big old trees in our woodland areas. Its common name is the perching lily, no doubt because of this ephiphytic inclination, and its Maori name is kowharawhara.

When it is not in flower, it is just a green leafy plant, akin to a softer, narrow leafed flax in appearance, with leaves over a metre long arching outwards, somewhat silvery beneath. Essentially it acts as green furnishing detail in the garden. But when the flowers come, there is a delightful twisted tangle of stems and foliage. The flowers come out creamy yellow and age to this soft pinky colour.

I hope the ignorant claim that our native plants are all boring is dying out. A. solandri may not be spectacular and showy, but it brings a quiet charm to the autumn woodland.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Garden lore

“In the plan of human conduct there is a marked difference between the mind which sees beauty in a simple violet and that which sees it in a pompous rose or dahlia. On the one hand we have a love for the free and untampered flowers of God’s creation, on the other hand for a flower of social ills, sophistication and conceit.”

Jens Jensen , Siftings (1939).

The aphid infestation on old hellebore leaves

The aphid infestation on old hellebore leaves

Hellebores in autumn Hellebores are one of the easiest care perennials there is, but even the most common H. orientalis benefits from a bit of seasonal grooming. I dead head in spring to stop excessive seeding and because the spent flowers can get heavily infested with aphids. By autumn, the foliage can be infested too. There are the tiny white tufty aphids and a whole lot of sooty residue which is the result of their honey dew excretions. I am going through now removing most of the old foliage. It looks a little bare until the fresh leaves and flowers appear, but it means the nodding blooms are much more visible and the new foliage is much prettier, while reducing the aphid infestations. Auckland plantsman, Terry Hatch, once told me he puts the lawnmower over his hellebore patches. I do it by hand with snips. I also remove the abundant fresh seedlings. A blanket of compost tidies up the area afterwards and feeds the plants. Timing is everything. If you leave the trimming too late, you have to work around each emerging flower and new leaf which makes it a fiddly job.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Plant Collector: tree dahlias

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The only resemblance these dahlias have to trees lies is in the astonishing size they can reach in the space of the summer growing season. Some can get up above 3 metres high. They are just dahlias, growing from the usual tuberous roots and because they are deciduous, they die back completely every year. The best known tree dahlia is the species D.imperialis which is also the largest variety and hails from Central America. Prominent NZ plant breeder, Dr Keith Hammett, has been working with dahlias over time and using other so-called tree dahlia species in ever more complex crosses to bring different colours, flower form and sometimes more compact growth into the range.
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Tree dahlias are not the easiest plants to place in the garden. They need full sun and protection from wind because their growth is somewhat brittle. They also need some sort of support to hold them upright. They flower now, in mid to late autumn, much later than the summer dahlias and this makes them vulnerable to early frosts. If you have the right conditions, plenty of space and are willing to build some sort of structure to support them (we are fans of thick bamboo corrals), they can be a welcome addition to the autumn garden but they are never going to be tidy, well behaved plants.

Reasonably sure this is the one named Timothy Hammett

Reasonably sure this is the one named Timothy Hammett

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Garden lore

“If you wish to be happy for a day, get drunk;
If you wish to be happy for a week, kill a pig;
If you wish to be happy for a month, get married;
If you wish to happy for ever and ever, make a garden.”
Chinese proverb

The phlomis age quite gracefully....

The phlomis age quite gracefully….

The autumn garden clean up

There are two schools of thought as to when one should be cutting back the summer perennials. The higher moral ground belongs to those who advocate leaving them all standing until early spring in order to feed the birds over winter. I feel slightly defensive about being out there cutting and clearing as part of the autumn garden clean up. Does this mean I am depriving the ornithological population of much needed winter sustenance?

...which is more than can be said for the messy sedums

…which is more than can be said for the messy sedums

Well, yes and no. I suspect the advice derives from much colder climates where gardens are put to bed for winter and our feathered friends have a much tougher time. Here, where we have growth all year round, albeit much slower in winter, the birds do not have problems with lack of winter feed. And so many of those summer perennials are downright scruffy and unattractive now. It is one thing to leave plants like the phlomis which has attractive, upright seedheads and tidy rosettes of foliage but the sedums and asters flopping all over the place are not things of beauty. I cut and clear now, often thinning clumps as part of that process. If you do a garden tidy round now, you can get a blanket of mulch on and the garden stays looking remarkably neat until it rushes back into growth in spring.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Fruity facts (pragmatism over romance)

Apples are a reliable crop for us

Apples are a reliable crop for us

???????????????????????????????The whole concept of a home orchard seems to evoke romantic images, often based on childhood books. The swing hanging from the old apple tree, the lichen encrusted gate by which one enters, feasting on windfalls, maybe sitting on a tree branch munching sun warmed plums – you get the picture. Needless to say, it is always sunny and there are no wasps.

In recent years, with the explosion of interest in growing one’s own produce, I wonder how many trees have been sold to people with that soft focus romanticism. Just as I wonder how many dollars have been spent buying fruit trees which are entirely unsuited to our geographic areas. No matter how optimistic you are, I’m sorry we are just not going to produce good Black Dawson cherries in the mid north.

Most fruit trees need care. There aren’t many that you can just plant and leave. The reality is that if you want a crop, you are going to have to give the plants some attention. They are not like an easy care camellia that you can bung in the ground and then hack back a decade later when it has grown too large.

Orchards take space, more space than many people have. This is because fruiting trees need full sun, some protection from strong winds yet plenty of area around each tree to allow for good air circulation. That air movement is what helps to combat the build up of pests and diseases. Over-crowded plants will not crop well.

Mark’s mother planted an orchard here. She was not without romantic vision. Little of it remains now. However we do grow a lot of fruit and maintain a fresh supply all year round. Most of the crop is organic. Over time, the fruiting trees have been placed in appropriate positions around the garden rather than in a designated area. However, as we are stripping out our former nursery, Mark plans a return to the old orchard and he has been stockpiling trees in anticipation. But unlike most gardeners, we have space.

There is no doubt that fresh, tree-ripened fruit tastes better and to be able to wander out and gather a bucket of fruit is a simple activity that marks a quality of life beyond dollar value. Much of the fruit that is sold commercially has been sprayed to make it look good for the consumer (pock marked skins just won’t do), picked green and cool stored. It is never going to compare with home grown produce, except in the looks department.

You are probably not going to achieve self sufficiency in fruit on a small urban section. But you can have the delight of some crops. Just think, before you choose what trees to buy.

Feijoas - one of the few plant 'em and leave 'em fruit crops

Feijoas – one of the few plant ’em and leave ’em fruit crops

The only fruiting trees and shrubs I can think of that can be planted and then ignored except at harvest time are feijoas, passion fruit, what we tend to call the NZ cranberry (myrtus ugni), the Chilean guava (Psidium littorale) and avocados (but generally you need to live within 5km of the sea to grow avocados successfully in this country). Pretty much everything else needs work.

Some fruiting plants need quite a bit of work – vines like grapes, raspberries and kiwifruit are not worth giving garden space unless you are willing to actively manage them. Given the major disease issues with kiwifruit in the Bay of Plenty, they are probably best avoided for a few years anyway. Besides they are frost tender, so not suited to inland areas.

Some fruiting plants need a different climate altogether. Cherries and apricots, in particular, thrive in conditions where winters are dry and cold and summers are dry and hot. Nectarines and peaches are similar but a little more tolerant of humid, temperate climates. However, if you want consistent cropping from them, you are probably going to have to spray for disease. Plums are the easiest of that range, but we find they are intermittent croppers and will skip some years altogether.

The modest lemon - common in many NZ gardens

The modest lemon – common in many NZ gardens

We grow a lot of citrus but we are coastal so don’t get much in the way of frosts. Oranges are our year-round staple fruit and we also have grapefruit, mandarins, limes, lemons and tangelos. Inland areas of the Waikato have summers that are plenty warm enough, but anything other than the ubiquitous lemon is going to be problematic without some frost protection. We get away with just one spray of copper in winter on the citrus.

The pears crop well, but not every year. As ours are not on dwarfing root stock, it takes an extension ladder to pick the crop but at least the trees survive on benign neglect. Apples really need annual pruning and some active management for pest and disease control. Our most successful ones are free standing espaliers on dwarfing stock, which allow plenty of air movement. Generally, they only get a copper spray once a year and occasional intervention when the codling moth gets going. Apples in our household are quartered, peeled and cored for eating because they are less than perfect. But they crop prolifically every year and taste good.

There is a whole range of lesser known fruit now on offer for sale – medlars, persimmons, pomegranates, kaffir lime, novelty citrus like Buddha’s Hand, to name just a few – but where space is limited, you are probably better to stick to the tried and true that will crop consistently.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.