Author Archives: Abbie Jury

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About Abbie Jury

jury.co.nz Tikorangi The Jury Garden Taranaki NZ

November 7, 2008 Weekly Garden Guide

We had a minor triumph here with the first bowl of home grown strawberries this week. It is necessary to cover your strawberries with netting if you want a harvest. The birds are willing to eat them as soon as a small amount of red shows so will beat you to the fruit pretty well every time. We need a little more warmth and sun to bring up the sugar levels but the first fruit of the season are pretty special when you grow them yourself.
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  • Limes have a much shorter season than lemons but are excellent to use if, like ours, they are thin skinned and full of juice. A gin drinking friend tells me that you can freeze slices of fresh lime and use them instead of ice cubes in your G & T. A Chinese garden visitor told us it is common practice in Asia to freeze fresh lime slices for use in cooking. And the fresh new leaves are excellent to use in Asian cooking over the next couple of months. They are tender and very aromatic at this time of the year. If you have the space and are in a warmish area, it is worth growing both a lime and a lemon tree.
  • We grow quite a bit of citrus fruit in our garden and have fresh oranges all year round. Mark’s parents discovered 40 years ago that having citrus grafted onto trifoliata stock is the secret to growing them successfully this far south.
  • This is the worst time of the year for weed growth. Stop this first crop of weeds going to seed or you will rue your failure for years to come. Push hoeing is very effective on a sunny day when the sun will frazzle the weeds but you have to push hoe before the seed heads have formed or rake up the weeds to prevent spreading the seeds.
  • Do not delay any longer on getting woody trees and shrubs into the ground so they can get settled in before drier and warmer conditions come (which they will). If you are in an area which dries out quickly (coastal areas like Pukearuhe and Patea), you can heel plants into the vegetable garden for summer and relocate to their final position in autumn.
  • Getting the vegetable garden producing for summer and autumn should be a priority. Aubergines, melons, tomatoes, all the members of the cucurbit family (cucumbers, courgettes, pumpkins and the like), main crop potatoes, sweetcorn and kumara can go in now.
  • For a fun activity with children, plant sunflower seeds. There is little to rival a giant sunflower for a sense of achievement though you do need to think ahead on how you plan to stake a 2 to 3 metre triffid because the achievement is equalled by the disappointment when littlies find their giant has fallen over or bent and snapped. Dwarf sunflowers are for adults. Give children the real McCoy at least once in their life.
  • Start deadheading rhodos as they finish flowering. Apparently if you oil your fingers (olive oil is fine), you don’t get the sticky residue on your fingers.

October 31, 2008 Weekly Garden Guide

To be honest, we won’t be doing much in the garden this week beyond talking to visitors and whipping around with the blower vac and lawnmower. Like many others, we are entering our single biggest open garden week of the year. If you don’t have your own garden open, then get out and visit some who do. Even vegetable garden fans have a selection this year in an innovative move (check out the Rhododendron Festival programme for these). What is more, the veg gardens are free or donation only. There is no excuse for staying at home this week.

  • If you are tempted to buy plants (and Festival week is a big retail week) get them into the ground as soon as possible because dry and warm weather will come soon. We do not recommend teasing out the roots at planting. The only time the roots should be touched is when you can see a pot-bound plant has resorted to growing its main roots around in circles. In this case you need to liberate the roots or cut them because the poor plant will just stay with spiralling roots. Otherwise, it tends to do more damage than good to tease them out. Make sure you cultivate the ground well so that the young roots can grow out further, plant to the same level as in the pot, firm it down but don’t stamp it down vigorously and mulch it. You can add fertiliser if it makes you happy but we tend to rely on home made compost to feed the plants. Rhododendrons perform best with good drainage (never plant in heavy wet conditions), good air circulation (reduces pests and disease) and reasonable light levels (or they may not set flower buds and can get leggy). Sun for half the day is ideal.
  • Now is the optimum time to fertilise most plants. They are in full growth and the uptake of the fertiliser will be most efficient. Read the instructions on quantity – more is not better and you can burn the roots by over fertilising which can result in leaf scorch.
  • Deadhead pieris (often called lily of the valley shrubs) if you want good flower set for next season.
  • The great vegetable plant out continues. Give priority to crops which need the longest growing season (tomatoes, melons, kumara etc) and to crops which you plant in succession to ensure ongoing harvests ( green beans, peas, corn and salad vegetables). It is important to keep your vegetable garden soils light and aerated. Quick maturing plants don’t like heavy, compacted soil. Avoid walking on beds where you can and make the push hoe your friend.
  • Pumpkins can be started on a mound comprised of layers of soil and lawn clippings. The decomposing grass generates heat which speeds up germination and initial growth considerably. Don’t make the heap too big or you may cook the seeds. A metre wide by 60cm high is about the right size.
  • Shun hormone spray at this time of the year if you have planted out your tomatoes or have grapevines. Hormone sprays are often used on lawns.

The quote from the week is a thought to ponder while out garden visiting and comes from American landscape architect Thomas Church:

Style is a matter of taste, design a matter of principles.

Italian Seeds Pronto

It is always great to see new businesses come to town and even more so when they bring us Italian flavours with the requisite Italian panache and style. Italian Seeds Pronto are New Plymouth based but offer a national mail order service supplying seed of heirloom and heritage vegetable varieties sourced from Italy. They kindly sent samples of pomodoro tomatoes and basil seed packets and I can’t report on the growth and flavour until the end of the season. But if you have ever been to Italy and sampled their very flavoursome fresh produce (best tomatoes I have ever eaten were the ones I consumed there in May), you may want to look at their stylish catalogue. From Italian parsley through to finocchio (fennel bulbs are a favourite here), a range of tomatoes, lettuces, radicchio, Roman cauliflower, rockets, celeriac and more are all available in seed packets.

There is a section of certified organic seed all priced at $8 a packet while the remainder at $6.90 a packet and the catalogue tells you how many seeds you can expect for your money. These seem to be very generous so you can share with friends.

Their website is not up and running yet but they can be contacted at italianseedspronto@ihug.co.nz or phone/fax +64 6 758 4190.

October 24, 2008 Weekly Garden Guide

Labour Weekend is traditionally the big time for the vegetable garden plant out, unless you live inland in areas which get late frosts. Certainly in coastal areas, it should be safe now to get pretty well all crops and small plants out into the open. If you are taking plants out from covered conditions in a glasshouse, they may need some hardening off if by some miracle we have warm sunny weather. Give them a couple of hours in the sun and then cover them up with shade cloth or newspaper or any other light cover to stop the sun from burning tender foliage.

  • You can now sow direct into the ground such tender crops as melons, tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkin and capsicum but you will get more growth if you start them off in containers in a glasshouse. Corn can be sown straight into the garden now and repeating this fortnightly through the season will extend the supply. It is the same with successional sowings of dwarf beans, peas and lettuces. Get main crop potatoes in and start the kumaras.
  • If you have veg plants in pots under cover, take care that they do not get stunted in their growth by getting dry, starved or too big for their pots. Crops like corn never fully recover from being set back and will respond to stress by bolting into flower early as small plants.
  • If you are planning to plant hedges, trees or shrubs, get onto it as soon as possible so the plants have a chance to settle in and make some new root growth before we get an extended dry period. We can warm up and dry out alarmingly quickly in early November, especially close to the coast. Ensure that the root ball of the plant is wet through and lay mulch on top of the soil to slow drying out.
  • All gardens will benefit from laying mulch. This needs to go on before the soil dries out, not after. A good mulch adds humus to the soil and stops it from getting parched and cracking.

If the weeding calls you, take note of Christopher Lloyd’s comments: Many gardeners will agree that hand-weeding is not the terrible drudgery that it is often made out to be. Some people find it a kind of soothing monotony. It leaves their minds free to develop the plot for their next novel or to perfect the brilliant repartee with which they should have encountered a relative’s latest example of unreasonableness.

In Praise of Pruning

The September issue of the NZ Gardener magazine had a profile of Palmerston North gardener, sculptor and retired florist, David Anyon. We have never met David that we know of, but several of our friends and colleagues speak highly of his skills so it was with interest that I read the article. The photos of his garden did not, we suspect, do it justice but it was his philosophy on pruning and shaping that particularly struck a chord.

To quote the article: “David emphasises that what he does isn’t pruning so much as shaping, to create mood and drama. He’s convinced that if more gardeners got stuck into a little clipping and shaping of their trees and shrubs from the outset, it would help to prevent mishmashed jungles.”

We first noticed this technique of picking out and shaping accent plants carried out to great effect a few years ago at Hollard Gardens in Kaponga. I can recall writing about it at the time. It acts like a punctuation mark in a garden, a feature which is a plant and not some placed object. It gives a degree of formality and a focus to what can otherwise become a melded mass of foliage and flowers.

Gardening conversations here can start as early as 6.30am with the pre breakfast cup of tea and for a while we mulled around the appeal of freshly planted young gardens. Owning and working in an old and very well established garden as we do, the appeal of a young garden is not part of our personal experience. But there is no doubt that there is something fresh and charming about newly planted gardens and Mark figured that it was because when you start with young, smallish and fresh plants, each one stands largely on its own, in its own clearly defined space and therefore has a distinct shape. As the plants grow and start to compete for more space, often intertwining and encroaching on their neighbours, the whole effect starts to meld into the mishmash referred to by David Anyon. A very different set of skills are needed to take the garden to its next level of maturity – lifting the skirts of larger plants to expose the trunks, creating layers, thinning, shaping, changing some of the underplanting to meet different conditions for starters. But New Zealanders tend to be great at creating young gardens and too often we have seen the response of trying to recreate the juvenile charm by either starting again and repeating a similar planting from scratch or by taking plants such as camellias and evergreen azaleas back to stump level so they will rejuvenate and look as if they are young and fresh again. Too few garden plants are ever allowed to reach maturity in this young country of ours.

David Anyon was articulating a different approach. And, as he pointed out, going against the prevailing ethos of the 1960s which still prevails to some extent today, where clipping is seen as fine for formal hedges but rather naff in other contexts. Personally I don’t want a garden where everything is clipped and restrained, which is just as well because we would need a small army of clipping minions to manage our seven acres. We saw too much of that in Italy where very little was ever allowed to grow naturally. But shaped and clipped accents have their place in gardens both large and small – probably even more in large gardens which can become jungle-like or rambling over time.

I spent Saturday afternoon pondering this as I was up and down the ladder cloud pruning Camellia Mine No Yuki. Even though Mine No Yuki is now in her third year of this treatment and I was just going over old ground, it still took me the better part of five hours to recover her allocated form. At the time I was wondering if devoting so much time to one plant was justified when we are feeling the dreaded weight of pressure to get the entire garden groomed up to the level we like for our upcoming festival. But when I had finished, I decided it was definitely worth it. It provides a key point, a feature to arrest the eye in what is otherwise a rather formless and featureless area of garden. The controlled formality makes the surrounds look natural by contrast, rather than unkempt.

In that Gardener article, David Anyon also refers to what he calls ‘defuzzing’ – removing little twiggy bits and dead bits from branches of larger plants. He sees it as making for cleaner, more attractive trunks and framing small spaces and vistas in the garden. I couldn’t agree more. This defuzzing is, I decided a while ago, one of the most satisfying and fun aspects of gardening. You can’t defuzz in young, juvenile gardens- there is not enough to defuzz. But it has a most rewarding impact in an older garden.

I am thinking of requesting a new ladder for Christmas. Our ladders are OSH hazards and need care. But we do at least have decent tools here. There is nothing more off putting than blunt or stiff hedge clippers, secateurs that won’t keep an edge, pruning saws that are blunt and bent or loppers that no longer lop cleanly. Mark is adamant that he won’t teach me how to use a chainsaw and they terrify me anyway, but I have learned that I can achieve a great deal with a good pruning saw. Gardeners with small hands or arthritis may like to treat themselves to grape snips as well. They are pretty cheap, as I recall, and pleasant to use as well as being light enough to carry easily in a pocket. I tend to wreck them by trying to cut through wood that is too thick but we bought a dozen pairs a couple of years ago and I still have a couple of brand new sets waiting hidden in my drawer. Mark favours a lightweight and small set of secateurs which were very expensive to buy but much easier to use than heavier and cheaper brands. If you are a serious gardener, buy quality.

The sky is the limit when it comes to pruning, shaping and tidying individual plants in a large and mature garden but I am really looking forward to having more time to indulge in this aspect of gardening. I certainly would not claim to be in David Anyon’s league (taking everyday plants and turning them into unique works of art, according to the writer of the article) but I would certainly like to get there. It is a great deal more creative than weeding.