In the Garden this week: November 26, 2010

· It is looking dangerously like drought territory so start battening down the hatches just in case. The word from the chief garlic grower here is to water your garlic regularly. After many years of growing it with unpredictable harvests, he has come to the conclusion that very dry conditions at this time of the year can stunt growth badly.

· If your container plants are not getting watered every day now, they will suffer. If you are getting behind, move them to a shady area near an outside tap or relocate them by your outdoor living area or doorstep where their poor, sad, droopy appearance is more likely to remind you to look after them.

· You shouldn’t put mulch on to dry gardens – it can act as a barrier to stop moisture getting in as well as out. If you were intending to mulch before summer, make it top priority this weekend but you will need to get the garden free of weeds first, then give it a really good soak (not just wetting the top surface) and then get the mulch on.

· Lift the level of your lawnmower a notch. You do not want to stress the lawn by scalping it in the dry conditions or you will lose your desirable lawn grasses and risk an invasion of hardy weeds. A reminder – deal to onehunga weed straight away and don’t let it get hold and go to seed. It is the seed that is prickly.

· At least with the sun, you can push hoe or hand pull weeds and leave them on the surface to wither and die. Just make sure that you remove any seed heads first, or you are merely sowing the next crop of weeds. It is what pockets are for (to store the seed heads) or have a bucket nearby.

· Keep up the successional sowings of corn, green beans and salad greens – a little very two weeks is the key to ensuring continued supply.

· A correction to Plant Collector from two weeks ago – the little shrub with the lilac blue pouch flowers is in fact Jovellana punctata, not Jovellana violacea. Both are from Chile but the true violacea has larger leaves and deeper coloured but smaller flowers. The friend and plantsman, who pointed out the error, also brought me a plant and flowers from violacea to compare and the differences were obvious. He has seen them growing in the wild. He was kind enough to note that it is a widespread error in this country to misname punctata which is more common here than violacea. I was, apparently, in good company with my mistake.

A step-by-step guide to staking and tying plants

1) If you can avoid staking a plant, do so. A plant can rely on the stake and not build the strength to hold itself up. If your plant has a small root system and too large a top (referred to as the sail area because it catches the wind) reduce the volume of foliage and branches to cut back the sail area.

2) This is heavy duty staking carried out on landscape grade plants put in to a windy situation on a road verge. Two, sometimes three or even four tanalised batons are used with wide ties. This allows some flexing of the tree without it blowing over and the stakes will last for several years. The flexing of the tree in the wind encourages it to develop a natural taper to its shape which gives it strength. To allow this flexing, the ties should never be more than a third of the way up the tree. All this staking will be removed when the tree has developed the root system and strength to hold itself up.

3) Avoid tying with string, rope or wire which will cut in to the bark and cause damage, potentially ring barking the trunk. For the home gardener, old pantyhose or strips of stretch fabric are commonly used or you can buy balls of interlock fabric tie at garden centres which are cheap and easy to use. Black, grey or muted green are less obvious in the garden. Strips cut from old inner tubes are another traditional tie.

4) Commercial growers use tying machines called tapeners which staple a flexible plastic tie in two movements so they are quick to use. However the tape does not break down in the garden situation so we avoid using a tapener except in the nursery because we don’t want little bits of black plastic through the garden.

5) Never force a stake hard in by the trunk of the plant, large or small. If you do this, you are damaging all the roots on that area of the plant, usually severing them entirely. If you think of the roots like a piece of pie or an umbrella, you are potentially damaging an entire segment of the root system. How far out you place the stake depends on the root system but even a couple of centimetres can make a big difference on small plants. You can see in the photo how much more damage the stake near to the stem will do compared to the one a little further out.

6) Bamboo stakes will usually last about a year before rotting off at ground level and this is often long enough for a plant to get established. Tanalised batons are a better option for longer term staking such as the trees in step 2 which will need stakes in place for up to 3 years. Where semi permanent staking is required for plants such as standard roses, metal stakes gently rust and become less obvious over time than other options.

Tikorangi Notes: Friday, 19 November 2010

Latest posts: Friday November 19, 2010
1) The romantic Moorish gardens of Andalucian Spain and the likely debt to it shown in modern, western gardens – Abbie’s column.
2) Manfreda maculosa – an herbaceous plant with a singularly dramatic flower spike topped with a rather anticlimactic flower.
3) Tasks in the garden this week include getting swan plant seeds sown without delay.

Tikorangi Notes: Friday November 19, 2010

Looking more cottage garden than rockery this week

Looking more cottage garden than rockery this week

A particularly good verbascum for our conditions

A particularly good verbascum for our conditions

Drought is a relative matter. About three weeks without significant rain here and farmers are already fearing drought while gardeners are worrying about the dry. A light volcanic soil does not help because it dries out quickly but our rains are usually so predictable that we never have to water the garden. I have been pottering in the rockery, excavating a highly decorative but dangerously invasive equisetum (horse tail rush). A mere ten months or so and it was already making an escape for it, including between the rocks. Plants that burrow underground and pop up some distance away can be unnerving but the speed at which this equisetum was doing it indicated downright dangerous tendencies. Strictly one for a pot, I think, and even then it may be on borrowed time. The rockery is looking more like a cottage garden at this time of the year. Most of the spring bulbs have finished flowering but the splendid large flowered yellow verbascum (name unknown) gives some presence and height in November. One or two plants are left to set seed each year and it conveniently perpetuates itself.

The Moorish Gardens of Andalucian Spain

Moorish gardens of Southern Spain - the Alhambra &

Moorish gardens of Southern Spain - the Alhambra &

I didn’t really know what to expect of gardens in the south of Spain, although Glyn Church had told me that the Alhambra and Generalife in Granada was simply amazing. What really caught me unawares was the depth of history. Our country is still so much of the New World that gardens of a mere fifty or sixty years in age are often described as heritage or historic. Indeed I have heard people claiming that their garden is “mature” after about 15 years.

Traditional courtyard garden - this one in Toledo

Traditional courtyard garden - this one in Toledo

Andalucian gardens in the south of Spain had Roman ruins, overlaid with the Moorish exotica and wealth, reworked by the Christian kings – marching down the centuries, layer upon layer. It was the Moorish influence which was completely new to me and that, apparently, is unique to the area. The Moors were the Arabic Moslems who crossed the seas and controlled large tracts of southern Europe for many centuries before they were defeated and expelled in the late 1400s. The Spanish gardens are known for the use of small intimate spaces rather than the huge water gardens of Islamic Persia and India. Ah ha! The origin, I suspect, of garden rooms in the modern, western garden.

All the Moorish gardens are restorations. While the palaces survived, the gardens certainly didn’t though I guess a certain amount of archaeological evidence remained, along with sufficient pictorial record to enable a reasonable level of accuracy in reconstruction.

The exotic chorisia in the palace gardens at Seville

The exotic chorisia in the palace gardens at Seville

There has been no effort to maintain the original plantings and indeed these gardens don’t have a whole lot of plant interest. In Spain’s hot, dry climate (even in autumn, it was consistently 35 degrees), only a limited range of plants can be grown. There is a heavy emphasis on buxus, cypresses, citrus, roses, grandiflora magnolias and annuals for colour. The only plants to stop me in my tracks were a colourful bramble (which would likely be a noxious weed here) and the sight of chorisias in full flower in the palace gardens of Seville. Chorisias are South American (so a later introduction) and in flower rather look like trees full of exotic orchids. I have seen one flowering in Auckland though I don’t think our summers are hot enough to allow our plant at home to reach its potential.

The Moorish gardens were all about creating formal, but intimate spaces cooled by water and shade where the nobility could take refuge from the heat. So the emphasis is on structure and hard landscaping to give the form. In a climate where it is too harsh to grow lawn grasses, paths and terraces are usually paved, often with pleasingly subtle mosaics and interesting detail. What impressed me about these fine gardens were the gracious proportions and the flow from one area to another.

Shadows add another dimension in a country of unrelenting sunshine

Shadows add another dimension in a country of unrelenting sunshine

At the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos in Cordoba (that is the palace of the Christian monarchs), the majority of the gardens were much more recent but the Moorish flavour remains, just as it does in the breathtaking nearby mosque cum cathedral. In a climate where sunshine hours exceed 3000 per year, the purpose of using vertical accents (mostly cypresses) to create a picture in shadows made sense. I have seen the technique copied without much success. I think it worked in Cordoba because they have so much bright sun that the shadows are really deep and welcome, because there were wide avenues left open to frame the shadows and because even on a cloudy day, there was enough strength in the design for it to work without any shadows at all.

These gardens have nothing to do with the peasantry. It was all for the nobility, usually royalty with deep pockets. In such a dry climate, the use of water for aesthetic purposes is in itself a statement of power. Nowhere was this more evident than at the Alhambra and Generalife, an entire complex of palaces, forts, towers, gardens, water features and even a village, all enclosed by fortified walls. Now one of Spain’s premier attractions, gardens and palaces have undergone major restoration. Interestingly, the palaces were modelled on similar principles to the gardens. They were not huge and the rooms were comparatively intimate, user-friendly even. Small interior courtyards and gardens were a frequent inclusion, usually with a water feature – a small fountain or pool with rill. It was the open rooms and galleries that really took my fancy. These had open sides, defined by Moorish arches, and an overhead roof – presumably to keep the sun out but to encourage as much air movement as possible. What wouldn’t I give for a Moorish garden room? The Alhambra was set on a promontory with views across to the neighbouring medieval village (the Albaycin) and surrounding hills and both gardens and palaces made use of the device of framing views, of drawing the eye outwards from these intimate and delightful small enclosures.

Coping with unexpected rain - a French visitor improvises at the Alhambra

Coping with unexpected rain - a French visitor improvises at the Alhambra

It rained on the day we visited. While clearly a most unusual event (few of the visitors were prepared for rain), we felt grateful because it cooled the air temperature on what could have been an oppressively hot seven hour visit and it bestowed a misty romanticism on the vistas which took my breath away.

What can we learn from the Moorish gardens of Andalusia? First and foremost, the sheer folly of trying to emulate garden styles rooted in a completely different climate and time and on a scale we can only dream about. It is one thing to extract ideas such as the garden room and the creation of gardens as a series of intimate spaces – a technique which has had a profound influence on western gardening. It is quite another thing to try and transfer the whole genre to a modern, New Zealand setting where it is alien. Leave them in the south of Spain – Moorish arches are more likely to look naff and tacky set against a backdrop of our wooden or summit brick bungalows. Similarly, the transplanting of the idea of the rill or narrow canal to a different garden concept rarely works. These tended to have a practical role in Islamic life (washing before frequent prayers) and were part of the engineering feat of moving water around a site long before electric pumps.

Garden rooms and galleries to die for - this one at the Alhambra and Generalife

Garden rooms and galleries to die for - this one at the Alhambra and Generalife

To transpose the rill or narrow canal in isolation is to ignore the wider context. Turning your back on the lushness and range of plants we can grow here in favour of a few cliched varieties is boring. But we can learn from the old masters when it comes to understanding the importance of getting the proportions right – especially in formal gardens – of making sure that garden rooms are not claustrophobic but that they combine intimacy with an invitation to explore further, of being bold when it comes to allowing sufficient width for paths and avenues, and of valuing the quality of materials when it comes to hard landscaping. Above all, the Andalucian gardens combined form and function, underpinned by aesthetics and logic. That alone is a lesson worth learning.

Plant Collector: Manfreda maculosa

Manfreda maculosa - looking rather more dramatic in the photograph than in reality

Manfreda maculosa - looking rather more dramatic in the photograph than in reality

Manfreda maculosa is a very curious plant, not the least because it has a spectacular flower spike topped with singularly unspectacular flowers. The stem of the bloom can be well over 2 metres tall and is strong enough to hold itself up with staking. It appears in late spring as something of a surprise because the plant itself is low to the ground with just a few fleshy leaves spotted with burgundy. The first time it flowered for us, I waited in anticipation, expecting something showy and exotic. It is neither – browny green tubular flowers with exceptionally long brown stamens, giving a rather ragged appearance. Apparently it is renowned for attracting humming birds to your garden. What a shame we have no humming birds in this country.

This manfreda is also called the Texas tuberose or Spice Lily and it does indeed hail from southern Texas and Mexico so is somewhat tender. It tends to run below ground so when it gets hit hard in a cold winter, it is capable of sending up fresh shoots in spring. I have it planted in a mixed border situation and thin out the surplus runners from time to time. It just sits harmlessly as part of the herbaceous plantings until it gets a rush of blood and sticks out its outrageous flower spike.