Flowering this week: ornamental oxalis

Pretty palm leaves and large soft pink flowers

Pretty palm leaves and large soft pink flowers

Wood sorrel. That is right. Not oxalis but wood sorrel. Oh all right, they are the same but the poor oxalis gets a really bad rap because of a few bad eggs in the family. We wouldn’t be without the ornamental oxalis in pots and in the rockery. The autumn and winter flowering varieties add a bright spot of colour, though they need sun to open their flowers.

There are around 500 different oxalis so our collection of about 30 is merely scratching the surface. As a general rule, the South African species are dormant in summer and the autumn rains trigger them into growth and flower whereas the South American species follow the opposite seasons. But that is not a hard and fast rule and some oxalis are evergreen succulents and not bulbs at all. By no means all of the oxalis are invasive but if you are not sure, keep them to pots and watch them for a while. If they have tiny bulbs which increase exponentially or if they have bulbs which reach out below the ground with small bulblets attached, then be wary.

While my personal favourite is purpurea alba (large pure white flowers with a golden eye, long flowering season and completely non invasive, in our experience), flava pink in the photo is a real charmer. Large flowers in pretty pink and interesting foliage which resembles miniature palm leaves.

In search of summer gardens

Plenty of detailed planning

Plenty of detailed planning

Readers of this blog may not have worked out that most pieces are published first in our regional newspaper, the Taranaki Daily News. After being a garden columnist for over a decade, last Saturday the editor published the equivalent of an abbreviated school report. Extensive readership surveys had given this column the thumbs up and in fact ranked it second only to the TV review. This was attributed to my writing “informed and often devilishly waspish garden pieces” . Try saying that after a glass or two of wine. But I was enchanted. True, the TV reviewer was described as witty and wry, but devilishly waspish has such a wonderfully archaic feel to it. I read on in the hope that other contributors would be described in such terms as, say, fiendishly roguish. Maybe graciously rubenesque or coquettishly impish. But no, I alone have the sting in the tail and a persona fitting of a Regency romance by Georgette Heyer.

But it will not be the editor sitting beside this devilishly waspish woman high above the world somewhere in transit between Tikorangi and London as you read this column. English summer gardens beckon.

Given the sudden upsurge in swine flu, Mark was tempted to grasp at straws and suggest that maybe we would be better staying at home. He is not the world’s most enthusiastic traveller, my Mark. When he worked out the scope of Google street map and individual websites, he ventured the suggestion that we could do a virtual tour without leaving the sofa, experiencing even the driving through London and the countryside in actual time. Was that not why I bought my lap top, he asked. But it is all part of the game and in fact this is a trip we have long hoped to share together.

English gardens are not new to us, but gardens in June are. We have tended to be spring time visitors but spring time gardens are what we can do very well indeed at home. Most of New Zealand, and Taranaki in particular, excels at spring gardens. We have a long spring and in the period between August and November, magnolias, blossom trees, rhododendrons, spring bulbs, spring perennials and early roses fill our gardens with flowers and fragrance. As I say often, in New Zealand it only takes about 10 years to build a very pretty tree and shrub garden. It is what we do. But gardens that peak in December and January and extend through to March are much less common here. So we want to go and look at summer gardening. We know the theories, now we want to see the practices and to see which parts we can apply at home.

Planning a garden visiting trip is certainly an interesting exercise, especially when you narrow your brief. We have done enough to know that while some of the very wealthy, large, historic gardens managed with many staff and a deep public purse are interesting to visit, we learn more from private gardens managed on small budgets but encompassing high skill levels. So while we will do the odd famous garden (Wisley, Hestercomb and maybe Sissinghurst) most of the gardens on our short list are ones many readers will never have heard of.

We have been lucky to be guided in our selection by An Expert who actually visits and reviews all of Britain and many of Europe’s best gardens. He commented that we should not expect too much of some of the Big Name gardens, that standards have lifted a great deal in the past two decades and some of those gardens have not necessarily lifted their game accordingly. Over the years we have heard the odd comment from New Zealanders on pilgrimage to English gardens citing cases where they were a little disappointed, so that all figures. We also learned from our Italian foray a few years ago that we enjoy looking at private gardens and that despite the very best of intentions, when private gardens go into public or shared trust ownership in order to preserve them, the genius and creativity of the original owner disappears over time.

Our brief to Trusted Advisor was that we wanted to see private gardens which combine good plantsmanship and design, have a summer focus and are managed without an army of staff and correspondingly deep pockets. He responded with a short list of 15 to 20 in our designated areas stretching from Norfolk to Cornwall. It takes a bit of planning and juggling because once you are away from the big name gardens which open daily, many of these private gardens are by appointment only or have odd set days and times. And with dear old Telecom here charging an extortionate amount to use our mobile phone in the UK (I just about fell off my chair when I read the rates), I don’t want to be relying on ringing while we are on the move.

In due course I will report back. We expect to see perennial gardening at its best. The English do it so well. Big swathes of flowering clumping plants in a sea of foliage and colour. It disappears away to nothing in winter. We have seen herbaceous borders in England in early spring – there is literally nothing visible at all bar the occasional giant gunnera wrapped up in straw and sacking to keep it alive. Yes the very same gunnera that is on our banned list here as a noxious weed. We have only seen on TV the near miraculous transformation from winter wasteland to summer carpet that is achieved with perennial gardening in this style. We want to assess whether we can achieve a similar effect here without the winter rest period (and without the gunnera). Here we have wind, torrential downpours which can flatten soft growth, rapid plant growth and very long gardening seasons. Our conditions may be less than ideal.

A couple of weeks of non stop garden visiting may not be everyone’s cup of tea but two heads are better than one and we hope to return inspired with new ideas. One thing is for sure though. When you are travelling across the world, it certainly helps to have good advisors who are switched on to what you want to see. We don’t have time to spend looking at very average gardens or queuing for tourist attractions. We are after hard-core gardening and hard-core gardeners.

In the Garden June 12, 2009

• Ash from fireplaces is a natural fertiliser. Woodstove ash is more concentrated than from an open fire so spread very thinly across gardens and lawns or add to your compost heap. That is as long as you have not been burning tanalised timber, plastics or polystyrene which are all round bad for the environment and leave toxic ash.
• As an addendum to our Outdoor Classroom spread in the newspaper last week (not available on our website at this stage) on potting citrus, we should advise taking any fruit off. There were no fruit on the tree we bought and nor should there be fruit set on such young plants. If you are buying beautiful little plants bearing fruit (I have seen mandarin trees available looking splendid and fruit laden at around 40cm high)it is most likely to be what we call spray-on fruit. Often it is the use of gibberellic acid which is a plant-based hormone used to stimulate growth and fruiting. The plant is too young to be fruiting and it will set it back. Take the sales crop off and let the plant get established and decide when it is ready to fruit or risk your plant getting deeply stressed.
• If you have an abundance of lady birds around your windows and crawling into curtain folds, regard yourself as fortunate. They are hibernating. The do no harm whatsoever, make no mess and deserve your tolerance from now until they spring back into activity when temperatures rise. They will reward you by busily dealing to aphids and other nasty garden pests in summer. So do not vacuum the poor creatures up.
• You do not have to wait for the shortest day to plant garlic. Any time now is good. Garlic needs rich, well cultivated soil with lots of compost and nutrient. Only plant the big cloves because squitty little cloves will give squitty little bulbs at harvest time. We remind you all not to plant Chinese garlic which may be cheap to buy but will give greatly inferior yields and potentially unleash viruses in your garden. Pay the extra and get good NZ garlic to plant out. Around 12cm spacing allows room for the bulbs to grow.
• Don’t delay on gathering your nut harvest or rats will beat you to them and those that the rats don’t get will go mouldy and rot. All nuts need drying out before eating. Spread flat in trays somewhere which is dry and has good air movement. It takes longer to get a good harvest from nut trees than from fruit trees but if you are fairly settled, planting nuts is a good investment in the future. The world demand for nuts is outstripping supply so the prices will keep rising. Only buy grafted nut trees from a creditable outlet. Don’t waste time with seedlings which may never fruit adequately. Walnuts are the easiest to cope with here and the bigger the nut the better. Macadamias can be grown in optimum conditions of warmth and protection. If you grow pine nuts, when it comes to extracting the kernels, you will see why they are so expensive to buy. We are not aware of anybody being particularly successful with hazelnuts or almonds in Taranaki.
• The common edible walnut is juglans regia. What we have growing as a weed through the Uruti Valley in particular is the Japanese walnut (ailantifolia or sieboldiana). Its only redeeming feature is its autumn colour. In every other way it is a noxious self seeder which is not even good for firewood let alone fruit and we would have been better off had it had been left in Japan.
• We were amused to notice some thermal underwear for sale in The Warehouse. NZ made and Woolmark accredited, it was in the shade of red common to many arboreum rhodos. Clearly somebody thought that because alongside the other colours labelled such things as Charcoal, Slate and Sand, these red thermals were labelled with the colour of Rhododendrum. Shame nobody in the production process could spell.

Flowering this week: Elfin Rose

Very pink but cheerful

Very pink but cheerful

There is no doubt that Elfin Rose is very pink. Bright sugar pink or candy pink, in fact. But on a grey day, she is a cheerful spot of colour in the early winter gloom. Her other stand-out feature is the exceptionally dark forest green foliage which provides a foil to that pinkness and, being a sasanqua, the leaves are quite small.

Sasanquas originate in Japan and are the first to flower every season, opening in autumn. They are often recommended for hedging (though it helps to be white and preferably setsugekka to be up with current fashion) because they take clipping well to make a dense plant and are tolerant of both sun and wind. But white is not a colour to lift the winter gloom in the manner of pink Elfin Rose. We grow Elfin Rose as a feature plant and do a nip and tuck trim once a year to tidy her shape up to what are loose stacks of cloud pruned foliage.

Elfin Rose should be available commercially but if you can’t find it, Sparkling Burgundy has very similar attributes and is a reasonable substitute.

June 5, 2009 In the Garden

* It is a good time to give the perennial herb garden some attention. Clumping herbs such as oregano, marjoram and mints benefit from being lifted and split up into smaller divisions for replanting. Cultivate the soil well and add compost because they like richer conditions. Mint is best kept somewhat confined to keep its wandering ways under control. You can plant it in a pot and bury the pot. Sage, rosemary and thyme are herbs which grow in dryer, harsher conditions. If your plants are looking woody, leggy and ugly, try taking some cuttings of firm recent growth. They root easily. Apparently rosemary will even put out roots in a glass of water on the kitchen window sill after a few days. If you have an area where it can naturalise, you can sow parsley by scattering the seed onto the ground.

* Keep an eye on the plant shops for fruit trees. One spin off of the current upsurge in interest is the large range of fruit trees now available. We even found a blood orange which we have not seen on offer before (gives the red orange juice often served in Italy which we initially mistook for added food colouring). Don’t delay if you want the biggest selection. All fruit trees like full sun, good drainage and generally all round good conditions including well cultivated, rich soils.

* You can be planting broad beans and winter spinach, both directly into the ground. Soaking the broad beans overnight will speed up germination.

* We are proudly still harvesting fresh corn here. Readers who followed our advice to continue sowing late crops may also still be harvesting cobs.

* If you have box hedges, give them the once over to thin the build up of dead leaves and debris caught in the middle. The fastest way to do this is to blast it all out with a leaf blower or compressed air but you can do it by beating the hedge and raking up the debris. The reason you are doing this is to try and hold the dreaded buxus blight at bay. More air movement and a looser structure slightly reduces the chances of the fungus getting established. If you wish to tempt fate by continuing to plant box hedges, you can direct stick large cuttings into position now. You can use rooting hormone on the cuttings but it is not necessary. However our previous advice stands: buxus blight is here to stay. Look at alternatives for hedging in the longer term.

* We wished we had realised earlier (many years earlier) that green tomatoes are so edible. There is nothing of the poisonous green potato about them and nor do they have to be a special variety to eat them green. The Victory Gardens programme on Sky showed a useful recipe. Slice larger green tomatoes in half and place face down in a single layer. Sprinkle with a dash of olive oil and a dash of ouzo (now we know what we should have done with the souvenir bottles of that drink brought back from Greece) and bake for half an hour until softish. Puree feta cheese with the drained liquid from the tomatoes and make a bed of it in an oven dish. Place the cooked tomatoes on top of the feta, season well and pop under the grill. Serve sprinkled with chopped fresh herbs. Yum.