November 30, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

  • We are getting very dry so make sure container plants get a dose of water daily. Few plants like a flood or drought regime (that is where you suddenly notice that the plants are wilting so you give them a really good soak and then ignore them until it happens again). Woody plants are likely to develop root problems. If the water pours out the bottom as fast as you pour it on top, you can be sure that it is flowing straight through and not being absorbed by the roots or the potting mix. In this case, water a little often, soak the whole container if you can or apply some surfactant or a little detergent to encourage penetration by the water. Scratch around the surface to see how far the water is penetrating.
  • Wetting the surface of garden beds is not going to do anything except keep down the dust. Gardens need a good slow soak but if your style of gardening depends on watering, maybe now is the time to review what you are growing and how you are managing it. It is not good gardening practice to have to water all the time and not at all PC in an era when water is becoming a scarce resource. At the very least, make plans to pile on a mulch after the next good rains when the soil is damp.
  • Keep turning your compost heap and make sure it does not dry out. It is probably acceptable to water compost and you do not want it developing fire fang.
  • Do not cut lawns too short (scalping them) as it causes them to dry out faster and to burn.
  • Keep sowing dwarf beans at two week intervals, assuming you like fresh beans.
  • With the rise in temperature, summer weeds such as portulaca are starting to germinate. Push hoe often to try and get rid of these weeds before they get established.
  • If you have not sprayed the onehunga weed in lawns, you are leaving it late so get on to it straight away. This is the nasty, prickly summer weed which can make it impossible to walk barefooted on lawns and is the bane of all children.
  • Keep copper sprays on potatoes and tomatoes and keep up with pinching out laterals on tomatoes (the leafy side shoots) to encourage good cropping.
  • Spring flowering perennials can be cut back and divided but you will need to keep them watered until they perk up again.

Real Gardening Real Easy. A practical guide for all New Zealand gardeners.

Author: Sue Linn
Publisher: Random House, $44.95

While this book was first released two years ago, Random House are still dispersing review copies which should mean that this New Zealand publication is still readily available.

The author is an experienced gardener and writer (New Zealand Women’s Weekly in case you are wondering why her name is familiar) based, I think, in Auckland. It is a solid 250 pages of information with many photos and competently written but its range is encyclopaedic – from garden design to hedges, making compost, choosing good plants, recommended cultivars, different garden styles, growing plants in containers and a whole lot more. Inevitably the information given is going to be pretty superficial in many areas and the plant recommendations eclectic, even random.

In a reasonably crowded corner of the book market, this is a nice enough option to give to somebody who is starting to find their way into hands on gardening. It should motivate the learner and give them sound, practical information to get them started, no matter in which direction their interests lie. It is not a book for more advanced gardeners.

Rainbow Festival?

Our conversation started innocently enough. There was a piece in the Midweeker where Kevin Moore predicted the collapse of Western society over the next three years. Now, I don’t wish to denigrate Mr Moore’s beliefs in any way whatsoever. I am assured he is an intelligent and thinking man and it is clear that he believes deeply in his predictions. But I was raised by a mother who spent the better part of her life predicting the end of social order as we know it. She lived out well in excess of her three score years and ten and, if she but knew it, she died a disappointed woman having missed out on the growth of Islamic fundamentalism and the Twin Towers attack, let alone the election of George Dubya – all of which she would have seen as vindication of her dire outlook.

What caught our eye here was the quote from Kevin Moore where he said: “Anyone who plants rhododendron trees at this stage of the game is mentally ill. You can’t eat any ornamental trees.”

It is, we would like to state clearly, entirely coincidental that this particular piece of wisdom came at a time when we made our decision to exit the ornamental nursery production trade. It is not the fear that the market for ornamental plants will disappear entirely in the next three years that drove this decision on our part. Rather we decided we had too many things left to do in life that we had better get on with before we are too decrepit or elderly. Two of the passions we wish to have more time to pursue are gardening and plant breeding.

And what possibilities did this dismissal of one of our favourite ornamental plants generate? With the impending demise of the annual rhododendron festival in the face of the collapse of western society, Mark wondered about the possibility of producing rhododendrons where the flowers matured into apples. In a myriad of colours and sizes, we could see the opening for a Rainbow Festival. A useful marriage of beauty and productivity.

Should his rainbow plants succeed, he pondered camellias which then produced mandarins. Maybe flowering cherries which then produce the equivalent of luscious Black Dawsons. Magnolias which morph from flower to pear.

From there, we went on to a discussion about the gene which bestows the ability upon some fish to glow in the dark. My memory was of being told in the UK that glow in the dark fish were common around the outlets of nuclear power plants but this may have been inaccurate in the face of recent research which has isolated the glow in the dark gene.

Herein lies a quandary for environmental ethics and genetic purists. Imagine the potential of a glow in the dark plant. Not the financial potential (though we are pretty sure we could sell a glow in the dark plant to most New Zealand households). No. Such plants would be a huge boon to the environment and could eliminate almost entirely the sale of those cheap and tacky solar lights beloved by so many. When they first came on the market, solar garden lights were not cheap. I think I bought some from the Maruia Society who were, and probably still are, committed environmentalists. The lights were reasonably expensive but now they are so ludicrously cheap that they have become throwaway, despite the issues of used batteries.

Would an environmental advance such as a glow in the dark plant suitable for all climates justify the cross species genetic manipulation that would be required? I refer to introducing a fish gene to a plant. A bit of genetic engineering would be necessary, maybe even embryo rescue. We are still pondering this tricky, ethical matter.

There was also a letter to the editor last week advocating the planting of fruit trees and home vegetables and counselling the use of organic methods for growing them. We are in full agreement with the advice but the letter made the suggestion that gardeners should not buy hybrids because these are unsuitable for saving your own seed for next year. In fact most veggies are hybrids (the naturally occurring species can be poor specimens which many gardeners and cooks would reject out of hand). What the letter writer meant, we think, is that if you save seed from F1 hybrids you will get a variable result. Possibly one of the best known F1 hybrids is the original release of Honey and Pearl sweetcorn – a super sweet variety where the kernels can be yellow and creamy white on the same cob. F1 hybrids are first generation seed and if you keep selecting and raising seed from these, you can stabilise the form you want but that initial generation of seed will be patchy and variable. Most seed packets will identify if they are F1 hybrids.

There is no guarantee that heirloom fruit and vegetable are naturally occurring species either. They are simply old varieties and in many cases may have crossed in the wild or be the result of controlled crosses back in time.

And with the news that the Ellerslie Flower Show is moving to Christchurch (though it is unlikely that most of the exhibitors, northern visitors and many retailers will follow it there), we were hugely amused by the message left on our answerphone from a friend with a natural talent for mimicry. “Ah gidday. It’s Tim Shadbolt here. Ha Ha Ha. I was thinking that we might, ha ha, move the Taranaki Rhododendron Festival to Invercargill. Just let me know if you think it is a good idea, eh. Ha ha ha.” As Tim is apparently scheduled to visit our area before Christmas, maybe we had better batten down the hatches before we find our successful event has moved south too.

November 23, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

  • Prune back the laterals (leafy growths) on grape vines to encourage fruit set. Trim to two leaves beyond the forming bunch. If you are troubled by mealie bugs, now is the time to spray them just as they are getting started. Ask advice at your garden centre for on suitable sprays options. We use Orthene but you can’t, unless you have a licence. In principle any spraying oil should work, perhaps with another insecticide added, provided you get good coverage. One timely spray now can virtually eliminate mealie bugs for the season.
  • With most apple trees having finished flowering, you can do battle with codling moth. Again consult your garden centre as to the current options, or good old Carbaryl has a good hit rate if you still have it. Tipping new growths by hand will largely deal to the leaf curling midge which attacks the very ends. Unroll the leaves and you may find a small pink creature inside. You either nip them off or spray them. You can use pheromone traps for codling moth if you don’t wish to spray with pesticide.
  • Keep the water up to container plants. If you are not very consistent, then at least move the containers into semi shaded spots or relocate them near taps. Container plants are by definition feature plants and if they get stressed and sad, it is a really bad look.
  • Wasps are getting started. Mark deals to wasp nests with a spoon tied to the end of a long bamboo stick (he is nervous about getting too close). Carbaryl not only deals to codling moth but will do wasp nests too if you drop it just inside the entrance. Wasp nests can be recognised by the sight of several wasps entering and departing from a hole. Wasps are yellow. Bees are brown. It is better to deal to wasp nests as they are just getting started.
  • Spring and early summer are the optimum times for feeding just about everything because plants are in full growth. Leave expensive, plastic coated synthetic fertiliser bubbles for container plants (which is what they were designed for) and use cheaper options such as Bioboost, good ol’ blood and bone, nitrophoska blue or high quality compost.
  • The leafy tips of broad beans should be on the menu, if they have not been eaten already.
  • Keep successional plantings of fennel, corn, peas, beans and most other vegetables though you are getting late for planting seeds of heat loving vegetables (capsicums, aubergine etc). You are better to use small plants of these.

Garden in Style

Author: Lynda Hallinan

Publisher: Random House, $29.99

Although this book is being promoted by the publisher as a recent release, it came out in late 2004. Its full title is New Zealand Garden in Style. Get the Look You Want. The author has an ever growing profile in gardening in this country. Her career as a presenter on TV was brief and pretty lightweight (Ground Rules – you may not even remember it) but she has gone from strength to strength as the editor of New Zealand Gardener and the garden editor for House and Garden. What sets her apart is her delight in plants (she also has a pretty good knowledge), her engaging enthusiasm and her relative youthfulness.

While the format of the book is contrived – how to achieve the look, from romantic to contemporary to formal gardens (there are nine options in all) and the 10 essential plants for each style, the plant selection is not as predictable as it sounds and there is good advice underpinning it all, along with the author’s bubbly delight in gardening.

It is a book for those who are looking to design and manage their own town sections. With lots of lovely photographs by Julian Matthews, a big typeface and well organised information, it is a good example of a motivational book for novices and a great deal more likely to encourage involvement than a dry old tome.