Tag Archives: Abbie Jury

Plant Collector: Lachenalia aloides quadricolor

The first lachenalia of the season: L. aloides quadricolor

The first lachenalia of the season: L. aloides quadricolor

The first of our lachenalias has come into bloom. ‘Quadricolor’ refers to the four colours in the blooms of this particular variety – lime green tubes with maroon tips are attached to the stem by a cap of orange and yellow. The commonest lachenalia that is seen in New Zealand is the somewhat garish, strong growing scarlet and orange which looks to me as if it should be sold amongst the plastic flowers in the red sheds. It is not in bloom yet. It used to be sold as ‘Pearsonii’ but that is an incorrect name, peculiar to this country. It is just a different form of L. aloides which is a variable species. We also grow L. aloides tricolor which is much later flowering and lime green with pale yellow and orange and the very different L. aloides var vanzyliae which is a striking pale blue and white with green tips.

Lachenalias are native to South Africa, predominantly the Cape Province. Most are winter flowering and summer dormant. We have different varieties flowering from now until early November in the garden. Many are easy enough to grow in sunny positions with good drainage, as long as you don’t get very heavy frosts. The foliage is not overpowering and doesn’t hang on too long after flowering finishes which makes for a tidier garden bulb. The highly desirable blue species come later in the season and not all are as easy to grow as L. aloides.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Garden lore: Friday June 28, 2013

Hooping roses to maximise flowering

Hooping roses to maximise flowering

Hooping roses to maximise flowering is a technique I first saw done in Ayrlies Garden when Neil Ross was head gardener. If you have a rose which puts out long, whippy growths, arching those growths over and tying them down hugely increases the number of flowers. This is because it encourages all the leaf buds along the length of the stem to set flower buds as well by dispersing the hormones which trigger flowering, rather than concentrating them at the top. I insert wire hoops and tie the runners down with stockinette. The ground cover plants will hide the wire hoops by spring time. It takes a bit of space – a metre or more on each aspect. In a narrow space, you can do it to either side only in a free form re-creation of espalier. It does work, I can vouch for that. The wire hoops are easy to relocate each season as required though I sometimes leave the long runners in place for more than one season, pruning back all the side growths.

I am pruning roses now, but those gardeners in more frosty conditions usually leave it later in the winter. Pruning encourages the rose into growth and that fresh growth is particularly vulnerable to getting burned by frost. Rake out all the fallen rose leaves while you are about it. These can harbour disease and, like spent brassicas, should not be put through the compost heap unless you make hot compost to kill off the nasties.

For more information, check out my earlier post: a short lesson in hooping.

First printed in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Garden lore

“Now that all the other many-hued flowers have scattered without a trace, the dead white heads of the miscanthus remains alone in the fields until the end of winter. As it stands there so gracefully, not realising that it has entered its dotage, and bending its head as if in memory of past glories, it looks exactly like a very old person, and one cannot help feeling sorry for it.”

Sei Shonagon , The Pillow Book of Sei Shonagon (tenth century),
translated by Ivan Morris (1967)

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Pruning wisterias
Winter is the pruning time for many plants, but none more so than wisteria. The most common reason for their failure to flower in spring is savage pruning. Don’t cut them off at ground level because they flower from last year’s growth so you will be cutting off all the potential flower buds which form on the spurs. Think of them like an apple tree. Find the main stems which give the framework or shape to the plant. Shorten all the other whippy growths to between 3 or 4 leaf buds from the main stems. Thin out the ones at the base by cutting them back flush to the trunk. You don’t want the growths which sneak along at ground level because they will put down roots and your one plant can become many.

At the same time, deal to borer where you spot it. You will find the borer holes in the older wood. I tend to reach for the CRC or cooking oil to spray down the holes. It smothers them. Or you can use fly spray. None of these seem to harm the plant whereas the borer can ruin entire sections over time. It pays to keep replacement leaders coming through in case your main stems get too badly damaged.

Wisteria whips are very flexible when first cut and can be used for weaving in a similar way to basket willow.

Step by step instructions for pruning (with photos) here.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Plant Collector: zygocactus or Schlumbergera (probably truncata hybrid)

Winter woodland charmer - we refer to it as zygocactus

Winter woodland charmer – we refer to it as zygocactus

We have always referred to this plant as a zygocactus. Others sometimes call it a chain cactus (although that is confusing because there are other cacti referred to by that term also). In the northern hemisphere, it is widely called the Christmas cactus because that is the time it flowers, or sometimes the descriptive term of Crab’s claw cactus. In fact it is a schlumbergera, often referred to as a S. truncata hybrid although it is likely to have S. bridgesii in its parentage too. Not having any expertise in cacti whatsoever, I will wait for somebody more knowledgeable to tell me the dominant species in its makeup.

It is a cactus, but not a desert one and it is not prickly, hailing instead from the rainforests of Brazil, where it is epiphytic – using other plants as its host. It is widely grown throughout the world as a house plant and much favoured in hanging baskets because of its pendulous, arching growth, tolerance of semi shade and prolific flowering in the depths of winter.

If you are frost free, you can grow it outdoors and this is what we do. We have it perching and festooning throughout our woodland area where it is particularly joyous in the depths of winter. We only have the somewhat garish, cerise form which is the most common one around. Hybridists have extended the colour range considerably, even to oranges and yellows, but the different colours have not been as vigorous for us.

Being cacti, these are easy to propagate from the flat, jointed leaves. Just leave them to dry for a few days or longer before putting them into a fine, sandy mix.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Managing garden maintenance

Close in by the house is under constant maintenance

Close in by the house is under constant maintenance

Garden maintenance. Oh yes, it is often like housework outdoors. No matter how much you do, it always needs to be done again. Vaccuming, tidying, dusting, spring cleaning – there are garden equivalents for the lot.

I admit I am not the world’s most dedicated housekeeper. I do it because I have to. If I found a gem of a reliable cleaner, I would find the money to pay this person to do it for me. But the times of my life when I have paid regular cleaners have also been somewhat irritating because they do not do it to my standards. Gems are hard to find.

Good garden help is equally difficult to find, I believe. Fortunately, because I don’t mind the garden maintenance side, I don’t feel the need to pay someone to do it for me. I have a wonderful book from 1984, vintage Alan Titchmarsh who is now a doyen of English garden television but who was a lesser known, bright young wit 30 years ago. It is called “Avant-Gardening, A Guide to One-Upmanship in the Garden.” In it he has a chapter entitled: “Having a Man In” and his opening line is: “Or a woman; but most likely a man.” He divides gardening help into Treasures and Tolerables. The Treasures, he declares, are rarer than blue roses.

I would love to quote the lot about The Tolerables, but it is too long. Edited highlights include: “They resent change. Their favourite flowers are …scarlet salvias, orange French marigolds, standard fuchsias and lobelia and alyssum. They love ‘dot’ plants. They have difficulty in recognising your treasures and pull them up as weeds…. The vegetables they grow will be their favourites, not yours. ….They dig beds where you don’t want them and act on ‘initiative’ without asking if you actually wanted the orchard felling…. They don’t let you know when they are not coming in (it pays to keep you guessing).” There is more in that vein.

Judging by the number of enquiries I have had over the years, good garden help is just as scarce nowadays as it has ever been. But, as with anything else, if you are only willing to pay the equivalent of minimum wages, you are unlikely to find a Treasure who knows what he or she is doing in your garden. A Treasure whom you can trust is even rarer and will need to be cherished.

The bottom line is that most of us end up doing it ourselves and gardening as a DIY ethos is deeply ingrained in this country to the point that it is often worn as a badge of pride.

The outer areas are on a once a year maintenance cycle

The outer areas are on a once a year maintenance cycle

I credit the potted wisdom on garden maintenance I received years ago to senior NZ gardener, Gordon Collier. Think of the garden as radiating circles, he told me. The circle closest in to the house is where you carry out the most garden maintenance to keep it well presented. Essentially, you stay on top of it by keeping at it all the time. The next circle out should be on a seasonal cycle so you get around it four times a year. Then there is the outer circle which you do once a year.

This of course is big garden advice. A smaller urban garden probably does not take you beyond the second circle. I have always remembered his words because it gave a sensible and manageable framework for a large garden, and we are large gardeners here. It is worth thinking about if you are extending your garden. The further out you go, the less you will do in terms of regular maintenance. Plan from the start to keep it on an infrequent cycle and you won’t be making a yet bigger rod for your own back.

He Who Does the Majority of the Weed Control here (aka my Mark) would like it pointed out that this does not apply to weeding. Depending on the time of the year, he will start a weeding circuit as often as every three weeks. If you leave the weeding circuit to three monthly, or annually, you will never keep invasive weeds under control. The convolvulus will have smothered its host, the seedling cherries grown too large to hand pull and there will be a permanent carpet of bitter cress. Most weeds will have viable seed on them by six weeks – hence the three weekly cycle to catch the weeds missed on the last round.

That outer round of maintenance is the pruning, cutting out dead wood from shrubs, the removal of large debris, seasonal dead heading where necessary, cutting bank rank grass and a general tidy up. It is what I am doing right now.

The middle circle is hedge trimming, digging and dividing perennials, cutting back, staking, pruning, shaping, clipping and mulching.

The close in circle is… well… like vaccuming the living areas and washing the kitchen floor really. Frequent and ongoing. I just prefer to work outdoors and, in my case, without power tools.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.