Tag Archives: Abbie Jury

In the Garden this week: October 29, 2010

A remarkably useful square of high density foam packing

A remarkably useful square of high density foam packing

• Advice this week is out of the do- as- I-say school, rather than our usual efforts to lead by example. This is the only week of the year that there will be no gardening happening here as we, along with other garden openers, are completely committed to garden visitors. So the first suggestion for locals is to get out and visit a few of the many gardens open for your pleasure this week.

• Winter has at least gone once and for all and after a slow start, we are rushing headlong into warmer and drier weather. Start a watering routine now on baskets, pots and containers. They dry out really quickly and a little water often is always better than a flood when they start wilting or dropping leaves.

• It should be safe now in all areas to get the summer vegetables planted out – corn, capsicums, tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, aubergine, basil, yams, lettuce, kumara and the rest. If you are a novice, this spring planting will give the quickest results to keep you motivated.

• Try and avoid compacting your garden by walking on it where possible. Quick maturing leafy crops, such as are being planted now, like light, friable, well tilled soil. Having a board to walk on is the traditional way of avoiding stomping the soils.

• Another warning about hormone sprays (commonly used on lawns) – earlier in the season we counselled against using them as deciduous trees, and particularly magnolias were coming into leaf. At this time we advise against them if you have grapevines or tomatoes, or indeed kiwifruit. All are very susceptible to the slightest hint of spray drift. Our overall advice is to manage your lawn in other ways if possible and only turn to hormone sprays as a last resort.

• The window of opportunity for planting melons with reasonable chance of success is narrow. Get them in asap because they need a long growing season. Watermelons are easier than rock melons but both need maximum heat and sun. Your chances of harvest will reduce greatly if you live inland where temperatures are cooler.

• Deadhead pieris (lily of the valley shrubs) to keep them flowering well next year.

• Some of the most useful pieces of equipment that we have were free – squares of thin, high density foam which came as packing around something. As convenient kneeling pads, they leave the expensive kneeling stools for dead. They cushion the knees, don’t let moisture through, repel dirt and are as light as a feather to carry around.

Outdoor Classroom – Rhododendrons: common problems and solutions

1) Silver leaves. By far the most common problem is thrips sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves, turning them silver and weakening the plant. Turn the leaf over and you may find black, thread-like insects on the back. Replace heavily infested plants – some varieties are more susceptible than others. Open up around the plant for more air movement and light. You can use a systemic insecticide – spray November, early January and, for really bad cases, late February. Neem oil is recommended by some as an alternative to insecticides.

2) Leaves with dry brown patches and edges. This is usually a sign of stress. The plant may be too dry or too hot. Move it if necessary (sun for half the day or dappled light is best) and get a blanket of mulch over the roots. Some varieties prefer a much colder winter than we have and these tend to burn and crisp on the leaves. Replace them. Some plants get touched by mildew and lichen. Open up to allow more air movement.

3) No flower buds. This is usually a sign of too much shade. Move the plant or open up around it to allow more light.

4) Leggy, bare and stretched. Again, this is usually a sign of too much shade. Some varieties have a tendency to get rangy and open, others are naturally more compact and bushy. You can rejuvenate a leggy plant by cutting back very hard but it is really too late in the season now. It is best done in the middle of winter. You are more likely to kill the plant if you cut it back to bare wood now. This plant was cut back hard two months ago and has made its new growth already.

5) Plants which make only one new growth from each stem can be encouraged to make several growths by pinching out the single shoot. Do this as early as you can or you will be pinching out next year’s flower buds. In the right hand photo, you can see a plant making several new shoots instead of only one.

6) If not deadheaded, some rhododendrons set so much seed that it can weaken and even kill them. It can also reduce flowering the next season. This plant missed being deadheaded last year. Varieties that don’t set seed are generally deadheaded for aesthetic reasons, not because it is necessary.

Tikorangi Notes: Saturday 23 October, 2010

Latest Posts: 23 October, 2010

1) Rococo gardening in Portugal – the garden at the Pink Palace in Queluz.

2) A lilac that is happy in our mild climate with acid soils: Syriniga palibiniana from Korea.

3) Our hints for garden tasks for this week.

4) It is only one week out from the single biggest event on our garden visiting calendar in Taranaki – Counting Down to Festival.

The fluffy pink pompoms of Prunus Pearly Shadows
The fluffy pink pompoms of Prunus Pearly Shadows
Rhododendron Bernice flowering this week

Rhododendron Bernice flowering this week

Tikorangi Notes: 23 October, 2010
With under a week to go until the start of the Taranaki Rhododendron and Garden Festival next Friday, the pressure is on to complete the garden preparation. Expectations are high when it comes to standards of presentation and grooming here. With various factors mitigating against meeting our deadlines this year (an appalling early spring of wind and rain, the odd bout of illness and injury, not to mention my disappearance overseas for three weeks), we have been grateful for extra assistance from some able friends this week. The plants are unconcerned by the flurry of activity – rhododendrons and azaleas opening every day, Prunus Pearly Shadows is a picture, the Scadoxus puniceus are eyecatching and everybody asks about the arisaemas (Mark’s hybrids). It promises to be as colourful and fragrant a display as ever.

Rococo Gardening in Portugal

Just one of the eclectic collection of water features

Just one of the eclectic collection of water features

I had been warned not to expect too much of Portuguese gardens. That is despite Portugal having a much more equable gardening climate than neighbouring Spain. But there are only so many castles, palaces, cathedrals, ruins and medieval towns one can absorb and I am happiest in a garden. So when I reached Lisbon, I had already planned a couple of days of garden visiting. Sintra is a small town in the hills 30 minutes beyond Lisbon and it seemed the place to be with no fewer than three gardens of note in my guidebook to European gardens.

Alas the day did not go to plan. The light rain in Lisbon translated to very heavy rain and wind in Sintra. With the best will in the world, my sodden footwear, lack of raincoat and a small umbrella which was giving up the ghost and blowing inside out were simply not equal to the task. The water was teeming down the roads and visibility greatly reduced by mist. The gardens of Sintra were destined to remain a mystery though I could see why they were lusher and greener than other areas.

With intermittent showers the following day, I was not going to make the mistake of returning to Sintra but opted instead for the gardens at the Palacio de Queluz, a mere 15 minutes by train from Lisbon and hailed, in my guidebook, as “the best rococo gardens in Portugal – perhaps even in Europe”. I vaguely recalled Elton John’s garden in the UK being described as rococo and, had I thought about it, I may have conjured up a mental image of gilded cherubs and heavy decoration in the Baroque style. That doesn’t even hint at the extent if it, although there was no gilding.

Borrowing from all styles of history

Borrowing from all styles of history

Up until my visit to Queluz, Britain’s Prince Regent, George, held the crown of naff in my books with his self-indulgent, OTT royal pavilion in Brighton. Restrained good taste is not synonymous with breeding and wealth. A penchant for flamboyance will triumph and the gardens at Queluz left the Royal Pavilion for dead. To be honest, the whole thing was a little down at heel but European countries have an abundance of historic places to maintain at vast expense, and I am guessing that the palace at Queluz may be rated as less important than other premier attractions in Portugal. The palace was pink. Yes, pink and palatial in proportions, though most of it was only double storey. The whole shebang dates back to the 1700s and the royal family of Portugal used it as a summer retreat, somewhat akin to Versailles in France. The exterior of the palace itself was heavily ornamented and the gardens, the work of a French jeweller of the time named Jean-Baptiste Robillon, were designed to spread out from the front of the palace.

This rococo garden was all about simplicity of form overlaid with elaborate ornamentation. So there were long avenues radiating out and formal gardens, all defined by clipped buxus and pencil cypresses. Form is everything and I was struck by the importance of allowing sufficient space for wide paths. In New Zealand where we specialise in large gardens, too few demonstrate the courage of allowing generous paths, wide enough for maybe six people to walk abreast comfortably. It gives a sense of space and grace in a larger area.

More about style than plants

More about style than plants

Plants were just soft furnishing in this garden. There was nothing of botanical note – some Magnolia grandiflora from America (introduced to Europe around the 1730s but I don’t think these were original plantings), agapanthus, lindens, planes and eucalyptus. Waist high buxus hedges were of clipped sempervirens, shoulder height ones looked to be Buxus wallichiana. Formal gardens were defined by buxus hedges but often the compartments merely held a citrus tree or were left empty. In one area, clipped buxus was planted in a series of serpentine waves. It is all about form and shape, not about plant interest.

Add in the ornamentation. At every turn possible. The more elaborate and detailed the better. Goodness only knows how many statues and water features, scalloped pools, round pools, a large rock waterfall (with no water running on the day I visited and stuck in the middle of long vista so it made no logical sense and merely looked contrived), tiling, balustrades, urns – the more the better. Stylistically, the ornamentation is borrowed from pretty much every period in history. The exuberance was overwhelming.

A hint of mausoleum style in the canal garden

A hint of mausoleum style in the canal garden

Gild the lily further

Gild the lily further

The piece de resistance were the tiled canals at the end of the garden. A natural stream had been channelled through paved canals, designed with locks so that the water could be held back to raise the level, apparently to hold barges filled with musicians to entertain the royal family and their guests. Pity the poor peasants downstream whose water could be withheld at the royal whim and then possibly released in a wild woosh.
The canals were lined inside and out with glazed tiles predominantly in blue and white (though sometimes in yellow, blue and white), depicting murals of shipping scenes, courtly matters and still life representations. These have withstood the ravages of time over several hundred years and are still in good condition and quite bright. Apparently the Portuguese, like the Spanish, are happy to gild the lily even further- in a heavily decorated scene, add some more detail – so colourful urns adorn the plinths, statues stand guard and steps are constructed and tiled in a manner reminiscent of a mausoleum. The effect was quite astounding.

This is not a style of gardening that is intended to sit easily in the landscape with boundaries between garden and nature blurring, in the style of the English romantic tradition. Nor does it have anything to do with the Japanese gardening traditions of symbolism, restraint and control. It is a long way from the Moorish traditions next door in the south of Spain which are all about restfulness, shade, cool and controlled use of spaces. This is more akin to the historic version of Kath and Kim: “Look at me! Look at me!” It is an ostentatious show of wealth with a certain frivolity within its extravagance and flamboyance. Decoration and ornamentation are the dominant features. I am not surprised if indeed Elton John has the late twentieth century version of a rococo garden.

As a final thought, when our children were little, Para Rubber used to sell a blue, scalloped shell-like plastic affair for use a paddling pool. Possibly they are still around. I hadn’t realised that these had their derivation in the rococo style, along with the hinged clam-shell style of sandpit.

Plant Collector – Syringia palibiniana

Syringia palibiniana - Korean lilac

Syringia palibiniana - Korean lilac

We are not the world’s greatest territory for growing lilacs, those wonderfully fragrant cones of lilac blooms in spring, which is why you don’t see them around this area a great deal. They favour a more continental climate with cold winters and, preferably, hot summers, heavy soil and more alkaline conditions. Taranaki with its friable, volcanic soils and very mild climate is at the opposite end of the scale. But this dwarf Korean lilac is wonderfully adaptable to our conditions. It doesn’t have as strong a scent as the common lilac (Syringia vulgaris), but it is sweetly perfumed and makes a compact little shrub to about 100cm x 100cm. Like all lilacs, it is deciduous and when its little leaves appear, they are completely in scale to the dainty flowers and the small habit of growth. It is one of those handy little shrubs that you can fit in anywhere in the garden which gets reasonable sun and it will delight you at this time each year as it opens its many panicles of little lavender flowers.