Of slugs and snails but no puppy dogs’ tails

The hostas are all romping into growth. There is nothing quite like this for focussing the mind on slugs and snails.

We don’t have a big slug and snail problem here and we rarely resort to using bait. We can only conclude that we must have a struck a reasonable balance with the main natural predators – birds. We have a rich birdlife in our garden and think that eating slugs and snails which have been poisoned is not a good call for our feathered friends.

Where we see the slimy critters making inroads to something precious, we resort to discreet little bait stations – a bottle cap with two or three pellets beneath a paua shell. The roof keeps the bait dry so it lasts a lot longer. A small packet of bait lasts us for ages.

Mark has been railing for years against gardeners who broadcast slug bait as thickly as fertiliser. Baits have an attractant so you don’t need to layer them on so densely that you trip up passing targets. One bait placed at the base of a lettuce seedling is all that is required to kill the marauders.

The bait trap

The bait trap

If, like us, you are reluctant to reach for the poisons as a routine solution, there are alternatives. The night time prowl with the torch can be effective though it may take a few forays to get the timing right. The snails don’t usually come out until a good hour or more after dark. The richest hunting nights are when there has been rain after a dry period. I squash all but the giant tiger slugs underfoot, which is a quick end for them. Others of more delicate dispositions drop them into a bucket of salted water where I imagine they die a slow and lingering death. Sentimentalists and, presumably, Buddhists release them in farther reaches or drop them over the fence to the neighbours so they live on causing damage. I am afraid that I think the only good garden slug or snail is a dead one (our native powelliphanta excluded).

As much of our problem slimy population was imported, it has always seemed a great pity to me that the early settlers who were so determined to bring food crops and plants to remind them of home, did not while away the hours of the long sea voyage ensuring that this vegetative material was free of the pests. It seems a missed opportunity and would have saved a lot of bother later. While we have a remarkable number of native slugs and snails, most of these feed on decaying material whereas the imported ones generally feed on fresh, green growth and do the damage.

I have not tried the beer can approach (I just don’t want cans of flat beer lying around my garden) but, as with the hollowed out orange half, these traps require you to do a morning round to dispose of any lurkers. There is nothing in the beer and the orange to kill them.

It is a myth that slimy critters will not crawl over rough and gritty surfaces. Insect expert Ruud Kleinpaste once showed a photo of a snail crawling over the sharp end of a razor blade. But they will take the line of least resistance so surrounding vulnerable plants in a thick enough ring of something less appealing can deflect them in another direction. However, you need a small mound rather than just a scattering of crushed egg shells, sawdust, rimu needles, sand, gravel or similar and you need it round each plant individually. It can certainly help with new plantings. Copper rings are reputed to work but it seems an awful lot of effort to go to, fashioning a copper bangle for each plant.

One eco friendly solution I have tried with success is generous amounts of cheap baker’s bran. Apparently slugs and snails find it irresistible. I don’t think the bran actually kills them, unless they gorge so much that it swells up inside and dehydrates them. I think it more likely they eat too much and then lie around in a comatose state making easy pickings for the early bird in the morn. All I can say is that it did work when I tried it on a patch of hostas that was getting slaughtered.

I have not tried the temptation approach suggested by BBC Gardeners’ World presenter, Monty Don. According to him, there is nothing slugs and snails like more than comfrey so he lays fresh comfrey leaves beside vulnerable plants. What he didn’t say is that you would have to replace the comfrey leaves every two days and you would need to follow up in the evening and deal to the revellers. I don’t think there is anything in the comfrey that kills them. It is merely an attractant (like the beer). I thought it seemed to be a case for not planting comfrey near vulnerable plants to reduce temptation.

In the end, we will never win the war on slugs and snails. It can only be managed and if you can get your garden to a balanced state of co-existence, you can target your efforts to areas of particular damage. If you are the type who carpets an area in slug bait (which then breaks down with moisture), just remember you are in fact carpeting your garden with a poison. It is better to try other ways of management if you can and save the slug bait as a last resort.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Garden lore

Labour Weekend is the time honoured occasion for getting the bulk of summer vegetables planted in this country, particularly those which require the soil to have warmed up a little. If you prepare the beds as soon as possible and leave them without planting, there should be time enough for the first crop of weed seeds to germinate. If you then push hoe these on a sunny day, you will save yourself quite a bit of weeding later. You want to catch them just as you get the haze of green showing. If you have enough time to allow for two flushes of weeds before planting, so much the better.

“These are most anxious times on account of the slugs. Now every morning when I rise I go at once to the garden at four o’clock and make a business of slaughtering them till half past five, when I stop for breakfast.”

An Island Garden by Celia Thaxter, 1894

Such dedication!

Plant Collector: Narcissus jonquilla and Narcissus bulbocodium

Dainty but with a strong perfume - N. jonquilla

Dainty but with a strong perfume – N. jonquilla

We have been taking a closer look at the narcissi this spring, picking out the ones which flower for longer periods and, latterly, the later flowering varieties. It would be good to have more flowering near the bluebells which are in full flight now. Most daffodils that you see around and buy as bulbs are hybrids. We are back to the original species this week with two which are flowering after most of the others have been, done and gone.

First up is the daintiest, tiniest and most fragrant jonquil species imaginable. It happens to be known as Narcissus jonquilla and is native to Spain and Portugal where it can be found in damp places. There can be up to five flowers per stem, each not much more than 2cm across.

Narcissus bulbocodium - one of the last to flower here

Narcissus bulbocodium – one of the last to flower here

Then there is Narcissus bulbocodium, also known as the hoop petticoat daffodil. It has no scent but if you have a good form of it, it flowers in abundance. It looks as if it only has the corona, which is what the trumpet is called, but it actually has a little frill of six tiny pointed petals making a star near its base. It too comes from the Iberian Peninsula but can be found as far south as Northern Africa. Despite that, it is hardy and sufficiently strong growing to naturalise. Both species have fine, grassy foliage.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Weeding – just like outdoor vaccum cleaning, really

Edging tools, push hoes and our well-used petrol powered line trimmer

Edging tools, push hoes and our well-used petrol powered line trimmer

Weeding. It’s the garden equivalent of vacuuming really. Tedious, repetitive and while the place looks great when you have finished, all too soon you need to start again. I guess you could ignore the weeding part (if not the vacuuming) but most of us prefer a garden that is pretty much free of weeds. In fact most of us place a high priority on this state.

There is a much higher tolerance for weeds in some other gardening countries, particularly in Britain. This may well have something to do with the fact that the vast majority of our weeds in this country are imports and a fair number are in fact native to Britain and Europe – plants like dandelion and blackberry, for example. We are probably more tolerant of our self seeding native plants too. I don’t refer to the scores of nikau palms we pull out and dig out as weeds. They are merely self seeded plants in the wrong place whereas the buttercup and campanulata cherry seedlings are indubitably weeds.

I have to admit we weed spray here though Mark is trying to reduce the amount he does. Glyphosate is pretty much all that stands between us and claiming organic status, but in a large garden, glyphosate is oft described as the equivalent of a labour unit. It is much faster to whip around with the knapsack sprayer than to hand weed. Mark has spent the last decade gently worrying that research will come up with definitive arguments against the use of glyphosate. It hasn’t happened yet, to his relief. But in this day of heightened sensibilities, he is rarely to be spotted by any garden visitor with the knapsack on his back. He hides, dear Reader. True.

The rusted Niwashi, implement for flat weeds and aptly branded Wonder Weeder

The rusted Niwashi, implement for flat weeds and aptly branded Wonder Weeder

We have a repertoire of weeding implements here and do a fair amount of hand weeding too. Others swear by the Niwashi weeder, to the extent that Mark bought one and it was relatively expensive as I recall. I asked him this week if he had ever used it because I never have. Neither has he, apparently, but somebody here must have because it made the trip right through the compost heaps emerging after about a year at the other end. Mark is a push hoe man and keeps his favourite two well sharpened. However push hoes come with a warning – refer to the quote of the day below! I have heard of one public garden which banned push hoes in the hands of volunteers because they caused so much damage. I favour the precision of close up work with the cheap and cheerful Wonder Weeder – so cheap that I have several and so sturdy that they can emerge from the compost heap pretty much unscathed. These implements work best in loose, friable soil. It is much harder work in compacted earth but a breeze where it is easy to scuff up the surface and hook out or sever weeds.

We also have edging tools – ones designed for both hard edges (where grass meets a solid surface like a path) and soft edges. And let’s not forget the petrol powered line trimmer but that is excessive unless you have a large section. These are because of a strongly held opinion on Mark’s part that little looks worse than sprayed edges. You know that dead brown line others have? Not here. The lawn weeder is also well used since we made the decision not to spray the lawns. Nothing works as well on flat weeds as this handy implement.

The bottom line of weeding is that vigilance and early intervention lessens the task. There is an old saying: “one year’s seeding, seven year’s weeding”. You can never completely eliminate weeding but if you can stop seeding, you certainly lessen the load considerably. We are lucky in that we took over this garden from Mark’s father who was a vigilant weeder. True, he leaned towards the chemical arsenal to carry this out as so many of that generation did. But at least we don’t have soils jampacked with weed seeds waiting to germinate. Where a patch may have got away from us and set seed heads, we usually have a bucket on hand to receive them. If you cut them off and leave them lying on the ground, the seeds can still ripen and live to germinate another day. For the same reason, gardening clothes with pockets can be handy.

Spitting cress

Spitting cress

Get ‘em when they are small and much easier to deal with. Soon after germinating is the best time, before they have well established root systems. They are far easier to hoick out of the ground and far more likely to die instantly at that tender stage. While the saying that a weed is merely a plant in the wrong place is repeated so often it has become a cliché, I can not think that the nasty spitting cress fits this kind interpretation. Every gardener knows it – the little flat weed which can go from first appearance to setting seed in a matter of days in full summer. As soon as you touch it, it jet propels its seeds around to ensure immortality. Vigilance – that is the single most important mantra. Target the worst offenders and maybe be a bit more relaxed about some of the others.

First published in the Waikato Times and reprinted here with their permission.

Garden lore

Don’t wait until January to batten down the hatches for summer. As you do the spring tidy and weed, follow up by laying mulch. This slows the soil from drying out over summer and suppresses many weeds from germinating. A loose layer of compost, bark chip, calf shed shavings or similar organic material needs to be about 6cm deep in order to be effective. For more information on garden mulches, check out Outdoor Classroom.

“Hoeing: a manual method of severing roots from stems of newly planted flowers and vegetables.”

Henry Beard (American humourist).