Orchids, A Practical Guide to Care and Cultivation

Author: Michael Tibbs
Publisher: New Holland

Orchids are one of the largest family of plants with over 25 000 separate species which makes them a bit of a challenge. They tend to attract the real enthusiast but it isn’t always easy to know where to start. While there are many orchid books around, this recent release is a sound introduction for a novice.

It covers the basic botany and growth requirements and has fifty useful pages at the end covering the main groups of orchids classified by temperature requirements. Orchid enthusiasts tend to favour growing in pots under cover as opposed to using them as garden plants and this book reflects that focus. In fact there is nothing much at all about growing them outdoors in a garden situation but there is certainly enough basic information to get the hobbyist started.

A large format hardback with many attractive photos, this book is likely to motivate anybody who has more than a passing interest in these exotic and complex flowers.

A tui in a cherry tree

What a joy are the tuis in the cherry trees at this time of the year. They won’t sit still for us to count, but there are times when we guess around 40 to 50 of them are fighting for the nectar. The trees can look as if they are exploding with birds. Being strongly territorial, they spend as much time bickering and squabbling and giving each other their marching orders (or is that, flying orders?) as they do feeding.

Mark found one tui which had apparently overindulged, lying in the park looking distinctly glazed about the eyes and very wobbly. He placed the somewhat floppy bird in a safer spot where it had some cover and wondered aloud to me as to whether he should be trying to get it to drink water. I was not at all sure how he planned to get the bird to drink. Nor was I convinced that the metabolic system of a drunk bird is similar to that of a drunk human.

Whatever, when he returned a little later to check on its welfare, the tui had perked up considerably and was not going to let him come near it again.

It is the campanulata cherries which feed the native birds in late winter. They are sometimes referred to as the Taiwanese or Formosan cherry. Presumably when the intrepid British plant hunters went out collecting, the island was still known as Formosa. They also occur naturally in areas of southern Japan and south China.

The campanulatas are small flowered in sugar pink or cerise red tones and they flower long before most other cherry trees. A tree in flower is just a mass of bloom and the leaves start to appear towards the end of flowering. Because they flower and come into leaf so early, they are regarded internationally as only suitable for very mild climates but they will grow through most of our area.

We had a very knowledgeable visitor from England this week and he was delighted by the sight of the campanulatas which he says can’t be grown in the UK because it is too cold. Now that he is building a garden in Normandy, he thought maybe he could try growing them. He was a bit stunned when we told him they are a noxious weed in Northland and on the banned list.

herein lies the problem with camapanulata cherries. They are a joy at this time of the year and they provide plenty of food for tuis and honey bees. But many will set seed and Mark will tell you that wildling cherries are one of the main weeds he deals to on our property.

I talked to a couple of garden centres in the hope that they would tell me whether anyone has selected sterile carmine red forms so they don’t set seed. Sadly no. There is a great project for someone. But in the absence of hard information, we would advise people to err on the conservative side and not plant campanulatas of unknown seeding status if their property adjoins the national park or a bush reserve.

A sterile plant which does not set viable seed allows the best of both worlds – food for native birds along with colour impact at this time of the year. Three of the most common cultivars on the market are of Felix Jury’s breeding – Pink Clouds, Mimosa and (what else?) Felix Jury. As far as we know, Pink Clouds and Mimosa are both sterile but they are the sugar pink colour range. In the desirable carmine red range, such as Prunus Felix Jury, most appear to be far too fertile. The one sterile tree we have in the garden here is far too large for most gardens, already being in excess of 10 metres tall.

Cherry trees, or prunus, are a huge family with about 400 different species from around the world and many more named selections and hybrids. But as a general rule in this country, it is the Taiwanese ones flowering now and the Japanese ones flowering later in the season. The ones from Japan are generally small trees, often selected for their big fluffy flowers. Varieties such as Tai Haku, Mount Fuji and Kanzan are well known. Gorgeous these Japanese ones may be, but sadly they don’t feed the birds. Nor do they tend to be long lived in our climate, often succumbing to bacterial blast.

Unfortunately fruiting cherries such as the big beautiful Black Dawsons do not like our mild and damp climate. There are good reasons why they do so well in Central Otago and why the fruit sells for around $5 a kilo there whereas we rarely see it under $15 a kilo here. Believe me, we have tried growing fruiting cherries here and if we could, we would be producing them. But we can’t so we gave up.

Foliage for the Contemporary New Zealand Garden, Julian Matthews (Random House, $39.99) Reviewed by Abbie Jury.

Essentially this book is a collection of 114 different plants which have nice leaves and are liked by the author. Each plant is given an eyecatching photograph with the facing page giving relevant plant information.

The photographs are beautiful and my only quibble would be that there is usually no indication of scale within the image and it isn’t always easy to pick because they are all close ups. Given that the range of plants is vast – from the large ginkgo biloba tree down to a ground cover ajuga, relative size may be challenging to new comers.

What lifts this book above a simple, pretty coffee table tome is the writing. The author is experienced in both gardening and in writing. He does not shy away from using botanical names but he writes with such enthusiasm and clarity that novices will not be confused. His advice on plant combinations is what makes this book worth having.

It is a shame the publisher economised on the quality of the cover. It has a cheapskate cover which creases and curls and is unlikely to last the distance should you keep this book on your coffee table for inspiration.

August 31, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

  • Spring is upon us so it is panic time in the garden. It is time to sow everything – annuals and most vegetables. Keep sowing successions of potatoes and peas.
  • Those with glasshouses can contemplate starting their special crops like melons and tomatoes in preparation for planting out in late spring.
  • Do not delay any longer in pruning deciduous fruit trees and getting a winter copper spray on to them. They are poised to spring into growth.
  • Sow main crop onions. If you have not yet sown your garlic, this is your last chance. Buy proper garlic cloves from the garden centre. The word on cheap Chinese garlic is that it is not virus free and it should not be grown for fear of spreading the virus further.
  • Deadhead hellebores to prevent a future explosion of competing seedlings.
  • If you are planning on sowing new lawns, you are running out of time. Preparing the ground in advance gives you the opportunity to deal to the germinating weed seeds by raking them off or spraying before you sow the grass seed. If possible, this should be done several times. However, unless you have already prepared for this, it is getting late to get it all established before summer. A lawn will only ever be as good as the preparation.
  • If you have a magnolia opening its flowers to reveal a very distorted form, it is a safe bet that you have a possum with a taste for the buds. They eat out the centre and can do a great deal of damage. Similarly the bright and gaudy rosella parrots can do huge damage and reportedly took every bud off an established magnolia tree in Cambridge.

August 24, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

While we can still get caught by a late frost (and inland areas may continue having frosts for a while yet) temperatures are rising and the days are getting longer. These act as signals to plants to go into spring growth.

  • Do not delay on moving larger trees or shrubs that you have in the wrong place. The sooner you can get these relocated, the longer the plant has to settle in before drier and warmer conditions cause stress (for the plant, not the gardener). If any such plants look to have very large tops in comparison to rather small root systems, then prune them to reduce the stress and water loss that will result from the move.
  • Similarly, all woody plants are better planted out in the garden now rather than later.
  • If you have not pruned your raspberries, then do it this weekend. Remove all last year’s fruiting canes and trim back the new canes to a suitable length if needed. Thin the canes to avoid overcrowding. It is not ideal to prune at this time – it is better to remove spent canes straight after fruiting in summer and to tidy up the new growth in autumn. But we will admit to having just done ours this week and we still expect a good crop.
  • If you have not dug in any green crops you may have, then make it top priority this weekend (along with pruning the raspberries and grape vines). You will need to wait another six weeks before you can use the ground for planting.
  • Kiwifruit should also have been pruned by now. Select out last summer’s long canes to be the fruiting wood for the coming season. Cut out all the weak and old growths and confine the plant to a limited number of strong fresh canes. It is usual to tie these down to a wire or similar support.
  • It is not too late to sow broad beans for harvest in early summer. Fresh broad beans straight from the garden are a taste treat and bear little resemblance to either the frozen product or the tough old leathery things sometimes sold.

Maggie’s Garden Diary 2008

Author: Maggie Barry with photography by Sally Tagg

Publisher: Random House, $34.99.

Timed for the Christmas market, I am sure, this generous hard cover diary is likely to be a gift welcomed by most gardeners. At one level it functions as a diary with a week per page and sufficient room on each day for brief notes. But the charm lies in the writing and photography.

Maggie Barry is one of the few people in this country who deserves the accolade of “garden guru”. Her knowledge is encyclopaedic. More than that, she is unfailingly enthusiastic about gardening and plants and her notes and reminders are chatty and to the point. This diary is not a replacement for reference books. There are two pages of writing per month and odd reminders dropped into calendar pages so the information provided is pretty random and eclectic but more fun as a result.

Sally Tagg’s full page close up colour photographs are luscious to the point of mouthwatering. The only thing I would have liked is botanic and cultivar names for the photographs.

The diary is bound sturdily and should last the year easily. A nice gift, either for yourself or to give to somebody else.