Formality and informality – painting with plants versus formal design

It may only be mid August, but spring has sprung and the grass has riz. The tuis are back, attracted by the early flowering campanulata cherries. Many of the daffodils are in flower here already. The snowdrops, sadly, have finished their all too brief season. The early michelias are in full flower, as are most of the camellias and the magnolias are opening. Magnolia Lanarth is a rather large vision in purple in our park where the big leafed rhododendrons are also opening their flowers. Some of the calanthe and cymbidium orchids are open and the early lachenalias are at their peak.

Garden visitors have started to trickle in again and everywhere I look I see work which must be done soon. I just wish that such a lovely time of year did not coincide with that sense of panic of time running out yet again. There are so many tasks I really meant to have done by now.

I had a very interesting conversation this week with a prominent landscaper about spaces in garden design. We were contemplating a reasonably large area which Mark and I are planning for a garden extension (close to the last area we have to move in to, short of expanding into the neighbour’s property). As gardeners who grow plants for a living, we look at a new area and think about achieving the desired effect with plantings and design. As a landscaper who makes his living designing outdoor areas for other people, his approach was to talk about space and flow and focal points and the actual plants are more like the finishing effect of soft furnishings.

What I found really stimulating was his confident and assured assessment of space and its absolute importance to gaining any effect. Spaces in a garden are essentially the open areas, usually paved or in lawn though you can achieve a sense of space in open woodland if there is minimal under planting. If you are lucky enough to have a property with a large expanse of water, that too constitutes open space.

Gardeners by nature tend to fill in spaces, to paint and furnish with plants and said landscaper felt that too often gardens could simply be cluttered by failing to define and retain sufficient open space. I guess it could be argued that the more complex the plantings, the more important that there be corresponding space in the right places to give form and definition.

I was once accused by a very defensive self-proclaimed practitioner of being anti landscapers. In fact that is not a fair comment at all. I part company from many landscapers when it comes to plant selection and plant interest and I was objecting at the time to a trend whereby many landscapers claimed superiority based on job title alone.

But I will always show respect for good design. And a good landscaper, by definition, has high level skills in looking at an area and seeing the potential to define spaces and to make pleasing sense of the area while meeting the daily needs of the occupier.

Mark describes the happy median as a marriage of formality with informality. The easiest way to define space is by formality which tends to mean straight lines, circles and semi circles giving obvious and clear form, often with a repetition of shapes. The skill is in creating the spatial relationships and the right proportions within the design. In a completely formal garden, this geometric design is matched by uniform and geometric plantings which, as gardeners, we personally tend to regard as lacking in plant interest and simply dull. However, it is the easiest option for non gardeners.

Enter the great English practitioners of Sir Edwin Lutyens and Gertrude Jekyll in the first decades of last century. It has taken us a long time to discover Lutyens and Jekyll here but we are inspired by their work. There is the perfect marriage of top design and creative plantsmanship.

Lutyens was a highly respected architect whose buildings certainly inspire with his gifted use of space, light and the intimacy of the arts and crafts movement. What would I not give to have a Lutyen’s house? And his garden designs are marked by a similarly gifted perception of space, proportion and formal design.

But it was Gertrude Jekyll who furnished those garden designs and she filled in his garden spaces with informal plantings which are soft and flowing by nature. Jekyll was the leading light of the great English herbaceous border and her skills with plant combinations still set the standards others aspire to. Jekyll softened the hard edged formality and gave a depth of plant interest, variety and quality which purely formal gardens lack.

I was interested talking to a keen Italian gardener recently and he much preferred the English style of gardening to the dull, repetitive formality of Italian and French gardening.

In Taranaki where we have luxuriant plant growth, rampant even, that combination of soft English planting of considerable complexity is a more natural style than the strict formality of gardens created in harsher climates with a very limited range of plants. But it does not have to be bereft of good design, formal design even.

And certainly my conversation with the landscaper focussed my thoughts on the importance of open space in a garden and its integral contribution to good design. In the end it is all about making an environment more pleasing to the eye and uplifting to the spirit. Why else would we bother gardening?

August 17, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

Regular readers will note that a couple of entries, here, are repeated from last week. Space constraints in the newspaper version meant that some entries were held over.

  • An esteemed colleague in a national publication tells us that there are a number of bulbs which can be lifted when in full growth (but probably better done just after flowering) but he only cites snowdrops and bluebells by name. Normal practice is to dig and replant when the bulbs are dormant in their off season but most of us forget where they are at that time. We knew that the English advocate moving snowdrops (galanthus) when in full growth but it appears that it can be done with other types of bulbs. However, if you are going to do this, we would recommend only transplanting to well cultivated garden beds or pots as opposed to field or woodland drifts in harder conditions. It is a big ask for bulbs in full growth to go into compacted, heavy conditions and to settle in well.
  • Make sure you have finished pruning grape vines. The sap will be starting to run and the vines weep and drip for days if you prune them too late.
  • Pruning of deciduous trees and shrubs (excluding cherry trees which are summer pruned) should be done immediately too. This includes deciduous fruit trees. If you have not already given a clean up copper spray to fruit trees and maybe roses, then get onto it.
  • Try and keep on top of the early flush of weeds. Remember the old edict of one year’s seeding equals seven year’s weeding. Preventing weeds from going to seed is much better than eternal weeding which can be very dull and discouraging.
  • In all but the coldest areas, early potatoes can be planted now.
  • Keep sowing a succession of lettuce and brassicas in trays or pots to be planted out into the garden in six weeks.

New Zealand Gardens of Significance

Author: Gordon Collier

Publisher: NZGT

“New Zealand Gardens of Significance” is a handy little guidebook to the best open gardens in the country, conveniently sized to fit in the glovebox of your car.

Taranaki should be especially proud of this book because out of the 64 gardens listed, 14 are local to our area which translates to 22% – a remarkable achievement. This book should be displayed in every accommodation place in our area with parochial pride.

Each of the gardens deemed to be of national significance standard is given a full page with colour photo, description and all the important details such as address and contact details, opening times, admission charges and website. Regionally significant gardens are given half a page each. Listings are alphabetical to each island rather than geographic which seems a minor mistake to me because people visit gardens geographically, not alphabetically. But I guess some regions have so few gardens that it would only be to Taranaki’s advantage to have its listings in a geographic group.

New Zealand Gardens Trust selects these gardens and is responsible for this handy little book. With backing from Tourism New Zealand, this is the only organisation which has the credibility to put forward these gardens as the best in the country and there is no differentiation between public gardens and the gems of private gardens which open to the public.

As a guidebook, it will have a limited lifespan but comes with a modest price tag of $12, which is not much for 64 pages and many glossy photos. It is a must for anyone who is keen on garden visiting or who hosts out of town visitors. It is distributed by mail order specialists, Touchwood Books.

August 10, 2007 Weekly Garden Guide

  • The campbellii magnolias on Powderham Street beside the radio station are in full flower at the moment and worth looking at. They are the big pink and white flowers. The red magnolia just opening its flowers around town at the moment is Vulcan.
  • An esteemed colleague in a national publication tells us that there are a number of bulbs which can be lifted when in full growth (but probably better done just after flowering) but he only cites snowdrops and bluebells by name. Normal practice is to dig and replant when the bulbs are dormant in their off season but most of us forget where they are at that time. We knew that the English advocate moving snowdrops (galanthus) when in full growth but it appears that it can be done with other types of bulbs. However, if you are going to do this, we would recommend only transplanting to well cultivated garden beds or pots as opposed to field or woodland drifts in harder conditions. It is a big ask for bulbs in full growth to go into compacted, heavy conditions and to settle in well.
  • Pleione orchids can be divided now. Discard the soft black bulb in the centre and replant the smaller green bulbs which have formed around its outside. Pleiones sit on the surface or just below with their bases nestled in, but do not press down hard. If they have started to shoot from the base and you break the shoots off, they do not put out more. Pleiones are easy to grow in well drained conditions or in pots and multiply up satisfyingly except for the choice yellow ones which prefer a colder climate to here.
  • In all but the coldest areas, early potatoes can be planted now.
  • Peas can be sown. This is a crop where making a sowing every few weeks from here on will ensure continued harvest. Parsnips, carrots, beetroot and radish can also be sown but will need protection from the rain. A coating of compost will help to avoid seeds being washed out. Sheets of glass were the traditional way to cover seeds but narrow strips of clear roofing plastic are easier to handle.
  • Start topdressing your lawn. There are any number of proprietary lawn fertilisers. Bioboost is a cheap and cheerful option. Lawns do not need the Rolls Royce expensive fertiliser options. If you feel you must use hormone sprays on your lawn to take out broadleafed weeds, get onto it as soon as the weather allows. Some deciduous plants, particularly magnolias, are very susceptible to these hormone sprays at the time when they are going into growth. The result can be badly distorted and unsightly foliage all spring and summer. So it is best to use the hormone sprays such as Tordon Gold either very soon or to delay until mid October onwards.

The Self Sustaining Garden – the guide to matrix planting

Author: Peter Thompson

Published by David Bateman Ltd $39.95

I opened this book prepared to be impressed. The author comes with impeccable credentials (a well travelled plantsman and keen gardener with a career in plant physiology at Kew). The first things I spotted as I flicked through were a couple of photographs of our garden here which was a bit of a surprise in a book by an English author.

But no matter how I tried to get to grips with what matrix planting is (and we should know here because the photo captions tell me we practice it well in our own garden) all I kept thinking was that it is making a mystery out of common sense gardening and good gardening practice.

I am not sure that the writing style helps. “Skin-deep eye-appeal, inability to resist ‘bargains’, and belief in promises for quick solutions – that is how we all start buying plants. Finding places for this little collection in the garden is akin to creating a sentence from ‘elephant’ because we like the word; ‘iridotomy’ because the sound intrigues us, even though we are baffled by its meaning; and ‘manufacture’ and ‘bread’ because they sound reassuringly useful.” Leaving aside the questionable punctuation, I could not help but feel that some ruthless editing might have helped to capture the message a little more clearly and concisely. And had the word count been lower, the typeface could have been a little larger. Older readers may need a magnifying glass.

So, best effort here from three of us to translate matrix planting into plain language is that a range of plants best suited to the conditions are grown together to create layers of mixed planting which excludes weeds and generally requires little maintenance.

It is a nicely presented book which is what we have come to expect from Auckland based publishers, Batemans. Lots of good photos. Plant lists which are always rather random by nature but even more so when compiled by an English botanist for New Zealand gardens. And I am not convinced that a ‘mono-matrix’ plant (Gunnera manicata which is on the banned list here anyway) and a ‘temporary matrix’ plant (cardiocrinum giganteum) are not in fact a contradiction in terms in this heady new world of achieving sustainability through careful matrix planting.