Tag Archives: gardening

Making a bamboo support or obelisk for climbing plants, step-by-step with Abbie and Mark Jury

1) If you have access to a stand of giant bamboo, making an obelisk or stylish tepee to act as a frame for climbers such as clematis or runner beans is not difficult. With bamboo’s often wayward habits, owners of such stands may be willing to part with a stem or two. It needs to be freshly cut to split easily.

2) Cut to the required length – two to two and a half metres is about right. Tie a wire about 25cm from the top, just below a node, to prevent the length from splitting right to the end. Use pliers to secure the wire tightly and trim it off neatly.

3) Using a hammer and an old knife as a cutter-wedge, make a cut exactly in the centre of the bottom of the pole. Tapping on alternate sides, work the split up to just below the wire. The first cut is the most difficult but once started, you can pull apart the two sides. With bamboo, lift up one side and start splitting. Then turn it over and split from the other side, alternating so that it splits evenly. If you keep lifting from one side only, that side will keep getting narrower.

4) Repeat the previous step four times in total, so you have eight separate sections. Our sections are about 3cm wide. The difficult part is splitting the nodes on the length of bamboo which can take some strength.

5)Use flexible ties such as grape vine, wisteria or willow to weave between the struts at intervals. Inserting a bucket will hold the shape while you do this, along with a temporary tie of baling twine. It is the ties that will keep the splayed shaped and give the climbing plant something to cling to.

6) The tepee will need to be secured to stop it blowing over. We tie the bases to simple bamboo stakes in the ground. You could use longer lasting pegs but we usually bring our teepees under cover in winter to prolong their life expectancy so old bamboo stakes as pegs are all we need to last for eight months.

A step-by-step guide to staking and tying plants

1) If you can avoid staking a plant, do so. A plant can rely on the stake and not build the strength to hold itself up. If your plant has a small root system and too large a top (referred to as the sail area because it catches the wind) reduce the volume of foliage and branches to cut back the sail area.

2) This is heavy duty staking carried out on landscape grade plants put in to a windy situation on a road verge. Two, sometimes three or even four tanalised batons are used with wide ties. This allows some flexing of the tree without it blowing over and the stakes will last for several years. The flexing of the tree in the wind encourages it to develop a natural taper to its shape which gives it strength. To allow this flexing, the ties should never be more than a third of the way up the tree. All this staking will be removed when the tree has developed the root system and strength to hold itself up.

3) Avoid tying with string, rope or wire which will cut in to the bark and cause damage, potentially ring barking the trunk. For the home gardener, old pantyhose or strips of stretch fabric are commonly used or you can buy balls of interlock fabric tie at garden centres which are cheap and easy to use. Black, grey or muted green are less obvious in the garden. Strips cut from old inner tubes are another traditional tie.

4) Commercial growers use tying machines called tapeners which staple a flexible plastic tie in two movements so they are quick to use. However the tape does not break down in the garden situation so we avoid using a tapener except in the nursery because we don’t want little bits of black plastic through the garden.

5) Never force a stake hard in by the trunk of the plant, large or small. If you do this, you are damaging all the roots on that area of the plant, usually severing them entirely. If you think of the roots like a piece of pie or an umbrella, you are potentially damaging an entire segment of the root system. How far out you place the stake depends on the root system but even a couple of centimetres can make a big difference on small plants. You can see in the photo how much more damage the stake near to the stem will do compared to the one a little further out.

6) Bamboo stakes will usually last about a year before rotting off at ground level and this is often long enough for a plant to get established. Tanalised batons are a better option for longer term staking such as the trees in step 2 which will need stakes in place for up to 3 years. Where semi permanent staking is required for plants such as standard roses, metal stakes gently rust and become less obvious over time than other options.

Hosta combinations that work: step-by-step

1) The single biggest mistake is buying an assortment of large, fancy hostas and putting them all together. It is the variation in leaf size, plant size and the combination of plainer, single coloured leaves with the fancier and variegated leaves used only as a highlight which makes hostas work together.

2) As a general rule, a variegated hosta needs the foil of single coloured leaves on a ratio of two or three plants to one. Going for size and leaf shape variation adds more drama as in this combination of the little frilly variegation of Kabitan with the large, rounded single coloured foliage of Goldrush.

3) Hostas come in gold, blue and green with variegations in white, cream, blue and gold. A blue and yellow variegated hosta will look better set against plain blue hostas or maybe a plain blue and a plain gold. Green and yellow variegated hostas will look best set alongside plain yellow or plain green hostas. Green hostas with sharp white variegations need lots of plain green to set them off.

4) Large swathes of hostas look better if they are kept to just one variety. This one on the left is Golden Tiara. We prefer hostas integrated with other plants, rather than only associating them with their own kind. This combination of a variegated hosta on the right with a froth of maiden hair fern adds interest in a narrow border.

5) In a complex herbaceous planting, the golden hosta adds light and a solid presence amidst Chatham Island forget-me-nots, Inshriach primulas, meconopsis and other plants.

6) Paler variegations – the golds, creams and whites – need more shade. They will be the first to burn in the sun.

Not all wheelbarrows are equal

1) Contractor’s barrows tend to be larger, more solidly built, heavier and more expensive than garden barrows. Better quality barrows can cost from $200 but these two barrows have been used on an almost daily basis here over 10 years. Some women may find the handles too thick to use comfortably and the barrow too heavy.

2) Metal or plastic tray? Metal trays can last the distance if you look after them and don’t leave them out in the rain or full of debris. Because I am guilty on all counts, I strongly prefer a plastic tray with galvanised steel frame, neither of which will rust, but this is considerably more expensive. This garden barrow is pretty much top of the range, costing around $180 but I like its wider shape and its stability and I have two of them.

3) Cheap barrows are usually in the $38 to $60 range and commonly have a light metal construction which is prone to rust if you don’t look after them. They also have a tendency to tip back if you don’t load them properly. However, with some care, the much cheaper price may be sufficient to offset those disadvantages.

4) Most wheelbarrows are sold in flat packs. Make sure you try out an assembled one in the store before you buy so that you know that you will find it comfortable to use and that it has acceptable stability. If you assemble the barrow at home and find that the wheel is loose with no means of adjustment, return it to the store. A wobbly wheel is a major weakness from the start. If you ever come across barrows with small or narrow wheels, shun them. You need a robust wheel to support the weight of a load.

5) If you store your barrow leaning against an outside wall, make sure that rain can not get down the handles because it will pond in the pipes and quickly rust from the inside out.

6) I have never tried the new tub style of barrow and can’t see that they have any advantage over the traditional barrow which has been around in more or less the same form for 800 years in Europe and up to 2000 years in China where they were invented to carry military supplies. However, should any readers swear by this new design, I would be happy to hear. Otherwise, I suggest you borrow one to try before you spend between $75 and $150 on buying one.

Propagating cordylines: step-by step guide

1) Most cordylines or cabbage trees grow a solid, fleshy tap root below the soil and it is easy to increase plants from sections of these roots, commonly called toes. This particular cordyline is an Australian species, stricta, but it shows similar structure below ground to our most common NZ cordyline which is confusingly named Cordyline australis.

2) Taking the toes off this cordyline will reduce the size of the root mass and allow me to replant it back to the same pot with fresh mix and fertiliser. Container plants are best repotted annually if possible and will generally deteriorate badly if you leave them any longer than three years without repotting.

3) Shake off the mix. Wash it off if necessary so you can see what is there. The same steps apply if you are lifting a cordyline out of the garden. We have never tried taking the toes off a large, established plant while leaving it in the ground although you can presumably do it without killing the plant because Maori used to harvest the toes as kauru – a form of starch similar to root vegetables. Try digging in from one side of the plant only if you plan to try this.

4) Because the toes can be very tough, a sharp spade or saw may be needed to cut the lower section off. We cut around 15cm off the bottom of the central root system of the plant.

5) If you wash the cut section, you are better able to see what you are doing. Cut the roots off the toes. They will die back anyway. If you want plenty of plants, cut the biggest toes into sections but don’t go much smaller than about 3cm in length.

6) Pot the toes fairly close to the surface, either flat or on end (cut side up on the whole toes because that is the top) in seed raising mix (low nutrient potting mix). Do not let them get too wet or they may rot. Within a few months, they will be sprouting afresh as shown on this toe of Cordyline Red Fountain.